Category: Tennessee

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Ramsey Cascade Hike, July

Today’s hike on Ramsey Cascade trail in Greenbriar was steamy on this Saturday in July. All the giant tulip poplar trees and ferns and wildflowers created a temperate rainforest. I’m was dripping sweat. Fortunately, there were several stream crossings and places where I could splash cool-ish water on my face and dip my hat into the water to cool off. 

The hike was as tough as always, even as I get into better shape, it’s still a killer climb: rocks, roots and ladders.  

As I climbed higher and surrounded by leafy green trees, I had to stop in my tracks to listen. A bird sings, loudly, and the Ramsey Prong of the Little Pigeon River roars. I’m not sure what the bird was but what a beautiful song to listen to in this moment. Watch here. 

I continue on with only four people coming down ahead of me. We all got early starts. 

I approached the falls and it was as spectacular as always. This was my fifth time hiking Ramsey Cascade. This time I walked through the water and got as close as I ever have to the falls and filmed it. The cool air from the water felt so good. Watch here. 

I waved to the two hikers eating sandwiches on the big rock; we were all so happy to be in this place. 

I turned around and headed down the trail.

Michael Frome wrote in his popular book, Strangers in High Places, about Ramsey Cascade and Arthur Stupka who back in the 50s and 60s led the annual Spring Wildflower Pilgrimage in the Smokies, “We all hike … for different reasons. Some take to the trails for solitude … others look for natural beauty, finding their wonder in the trees, wildflowers, and wild animals. The scientists hike in order to study and advance the knowledge of the human race about the planet on which it lives. Others want to match their muscles and stamina against the long trails to the highlands. It does not make much difference really, why we hike, or tramp, or walk as long as the trails and the expansive natural environment are there so we can do these things. ” (326) 

I’m in the later category, I always have been. 

As I get closer to my car I notice Swallowtail butterflies lining the trail. They form bunches and then fly off together as I pass. I see more in the parking lot and the road back to Route 321. I don’t know that they are Swallowtails until I get home and Google it. 

It was a good day to be on the trails. 

Stats:

Distance: 8 miles.
Time: 3 hrs, 5 mins
What I ate: half peanut butter and jelly sandwich, one granola bar, a few handfuls GORP
What I drank: a bottle tailwind endurance fuel, 1 L water
What I wore: Salomon hydration vest, CW-X compression shorts, Little Rock marathon race top, L100 baseball hat
What I saw: Swallowtail butterflies, not many people, majestic 90 ft waterfall

Rate this hike: 10/10

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West to Little Rock

Go see the world, she said.

So I did.

Most of my racing and travel posts starts with a trip’s intent. If you are a frequent reader, you know that changes a lot especially right before the trip start.  

I signed up for the Little Rock Marathon six months ago. I signed up because I wanted to see Little Rock. I wanted to see the capital area, the Arkansas River and the Bill Clinton Presidential Library. I also wanted to drive into Oklahoma via the Trail of Tears byway. 

But first, a six-hour drive to Memphis where I stopped on the first night. I spent a few hours in the National Civil Rights Museum, 450 Mulberry Street. When you walk up to the museum, you see the Lorraine Motel as it was in 1968. In the museum they exhibit the history of the American Civil Rights Movement. Such well organized displays and thought provoking images. One exhibit shows what MLK’s hotel room looked like that he stayed in before he was shot. It felt strange to be walking around so much history that I’ve read about and watched on TV. I’m still processing what I saw and learned.

I walked through downtown, exploring and eating at a Mexican restaurant, reading area brochures and learning about Memphis. 

The next day, early start to Little Rock and packet pickup. I decided that I will run the half marathon instead of the full. I feel like dropping down in races is so 2023-of-me. However, the pattern continues in 2024. Please stand by. My race approach is evolving. But I digress…

I drove over the Arkansas River. The last time I saw this river was in Colorado last year when we visited the Royal Gorge. And now I see it as it joins the Mississippi in Arkansas. The Arkansas River is the second-longest tributary in the Mississippi-Missouri river system, originating near Leadville, Colorado – my favorite racecation destination. 

The entire registration was held in the Little Rock Convention Center. Using indoor. bathrooms is such a luxury with a big race like this. The dinosaur-themed race was festive with so many runners dressing silly. I was looking forward to race day.

After getting my bib, I drove to Little Rock Central High School. I walk around the grounds and read about the 1957 event and learn more about the Little Rock Nine.

I have enough time to drive to Fort Smith National Historic Site which is two hours from Little Rock. I walked through the historic fort and park, read the signs to learn about the fort’s history. I walked along the Arkansas River, which was heading towards Little Rock and the Mississippi.

Fort Smith trail walk on the Arkansas
In the park exhibit
the fort
late 19th century

I drove into Oklahoma, ate lunch and started back to Little Rock. 

I get back to the hotel, which is a half mile from the race start. Sometimes pre-trip planning doesn’t work out, but this time, the location works out to my advantage. And, it just so happens the Clinton Library is a short walk down the street. I walk around the campus since I missed open hours. There is some sort of fundraiser or event happening as I walk around; people are dressed up and entering the museum. 

Sunday: Race Day. I wake up at 4:30am for a 6am start. Originally the race was planned to start at 8am but due to unseasonable warm weather and humidity organized changed it to an early start. 

It’s 4:35 am and I really didn’t want to run. I wanted to sleep in and drive home. I get this way traveling sometimes; I just want to be home with my dogs. But then I force myself to remember this is a planned adventure. I want to do this. I want to run Little Rock.

Marathons (and shorter races) really allow me to see a place. I hemmed and hawed for a good 30 minutes and ultimately got up, put on my race clothes (read: big girl pants) and walked to the start. 

I was so happy to be at this start line. I always forget this.

The race start wasn’t what I expected, but almost nothing is anymore. 

There were thousands in the corral. Marathon and half marathoners all together in letter-labled areas. I was in E. 

I usually talk to people and get pumped up to start but today, I didn’t talk to anyone. I sat and stretched and took a few pictures. 

It took about five minutes to get to the start line and I just ran my pace. I no longer have a race pace – I have a pace I always run. My comfortable pace is between 10 and 11 minute miles. 

We ran through downtown and around a few residential areas and made our way back out to Central High School. The school’s marching band played for us as we ran by. Then suddenly I am at 13 miles and we are back to the start. The temperature was perfect: 55 and misting. No Sun! 

I’m so glad I finished this race. 

I walked back to the hotel and showered. I was sore! But I was also ready to head home. 

I drove home across the Arkansas River and the Mississippi River. I drove past Memphis and Nashville. As dark descended, and 8 hours had passed I was at Exit 407 and home was 30 minutes away. 

As of today, I have two states left to visit: Michigan and North Dakota. Let the trip planning begin.

How to fuel before a road trip: Flapjacks at Exit 407 Sevierville.

Go see the world.

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Ramsey Cascade in September

Last weekend I decided to run/hike to Ramsey Cascade in Great Smoky Mountains National Park. I needed more than 8 miles for my training plan so I parked at the bridge that crosses Middle Prong at the intersection of Greenbrier Road. The total miles for the day: 11.2 miles and 2,680 feet of elevation gain. 

Parking remotely turned out to be the best idea because trailhead parking for Ramsey Cascade fills up quickly, and when I ran through the parking area on the way back there were many strange parking jobs where multiple cars looked stuck. And so many people by noon. 

I started early as always and only passed four hikers going up on this Sunday in September.

Trail maintenance has been ongoing during the week. Rock steps and ladders are this hiker’s dream. The closer to the end of the trail, the more ladders are present.  This construction does close this trail right now Monday through Thursday. 

The Ramsey Cascade trail is about 60% runnable. There are rocky parts and steep parts, and various flats and straight up parts; it’s a trail runner’s dream. When I cross streams or get close enough to the rushing water, I am able to throw water over my head and splash my face with the cool water to stay cool.

My favorite part of this trail is looking for the huge Tulip Poplar tree. I’ve seen so many old time photos of people holding hands around this tree for perspective. One day I will do the same if I hike it with a group of people. 

The closer I get to the waterfall the louder the water becomes and it’s thrilling to see the white cascades through the trees on approach. The waterfall is spectacular as always and I could stare at it for hours. This was my second time on this trail and first time trying to run it as much as I could. 

As I headed down I talked to another solo hiker and she told the story of how she comes to Gatlinburg every year and likes to hike this trail. Before all the new trail construction the boulders were so big that an older man got stuck and search and rescue had to get him. I told her how thankful I was for the trail maintenance done on this trail. It such a popular, it really is needed. I passed about 30 people going up. 

The leaves aren’t changing yet but I can’t wait to get back there for another run and see the fall colors. 

This week I finished reading Strangers in High Places; The Story of the Great Smoky Mountains by Michael Frome. The book is so good, so compelling, so well written, that I read it in a week. I like how Frome starts with the Eastern Cherokee history, and sad removal, and then moves to the mountain people and lumbermen. He writes about the moonshiners and revenuers (IRS), bears and all about the park’s boars/pigs.

The longest section is about the legislation surrounding the Smokies becoming a protected national park. He writes about land transactions surrounding the creation of the park and all of the ongoing personal interests that are threats to it. He wrote about Horace Kephart, and how Kephart left his family and moved to the North Carolina woods to start over. He later became a folk hero to many mountain people. I had to learn more about him so I’m now reading Our Southern Highlanders. The full text is here courtesy of The Project Gutenberg.

I would argue that these two books should be required reading for anyone who loves the Great Smokies and wants to understand its history. 

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August hike to Charlies Bunion GSMNP

The hike on Sunday to Charlie’s Bunion was a great day to be in the mountains. As I started on the AT from Newfound Gap I was thankful for cool temperatures and to see a few other solo, women hikers on the trail. I saw a few trail workers and hikers who have been on the trail a few days. 

I love being on the AT. While I do not have aspirations to through-hike this trail, I can appreciate the patience and dedication it takes to complete the feat. 

While hiking I was thinking of the book I’m reading, Following Isabella Travels in Colorado Then and Now. Since I’m traveling to Colorado soon I wanted to get in the Colorado spirit by reading about its history by Robert Root. But it got me thinking about the trip I just booked to Maine. I thought I should start reading a book about Maine to get in the spirit of traveling there. I start thinking about what I should read and Sarh Orne Jewett comes to mind. I have her biography and I’ve been to her house in South Berwick. I obsessively read about her many years ago. 

As I’m hiking I remember reading about Willa Cather and how she and Jewett wrote letters to each other, encouraging each other in their writing life. That advice is good: “Find a quiet place with the best companions.” Which is what I’m always unknowingly searching for in this life. 

While hiking I think of so many things I want to do. My mind wanders to books and people and places, and suddenly I’m deep into the mountains.

After 4 miles, I climbed to the rocky top of Charlie’s Bunion with expansive views of the mountain peaks. 

I hope to one day learn all the names of the peaks I see but for today, I just took in the view and was happy to be in the Smoky Mountains. 

On the way back to the car I talked to a father who was hiking with his two young girls. They hiked to the Jump Off for the sunrise. I love seeing young kids hiking on big trails. The girls were sweet and seemed thrilled to be hiking this morning. 

I passed about 15 people on the way back to the car, and I even saw one man in flip flops. 

I’m glad to be back hiking and running regularly. My training plan for the next 12 weeks is a long run on Saturday and a hike/run on Sunday. This plan is going to help me complete miles on the 900 miles map. As of today, I have completed 48.9 miles and I’m 2% done. Next week is Alum Trail to LeConte.

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Why I Must Travel, Finding Home

I bought a few plane tickets and booked a couple car rentals this week. I can’t remember when I’ve felt so excited. Well, at least in the last year. 

See, the last year has been filled with moving plans, buying furniture, adopting a dog, buying a house and starting a new job. 

While all of these things are exciting in context, at my age they have produced unwanted  anxiety to the level that I’ve never felt before; although all self-inflicted. While anxious, travel and and seeing new places is the last thing on my mind. 

However, as things have settled down, one of the things that makes me want to travel is reading. After a period of stress and watching too much television, I have a thought about a book. I find a book on my bookshelf, or in a random online search and I’m suddenly reading for hours – I’m back to the self I like. 

The reading frenzy started with Thomas Wolfe and Look Homeward, Angel; a book I read 20 years ago and fell in love with. I live 90 minutes from the setting of the book and where Wolfe grew up. I drove over to Asheville and walked around Old Kentucky Home. 

I started reading his biographies and literary scholarship. I fell in love with him again. But reading Wolfe has led me back to my favorite author, Wallace Stegner. Reading Stegner makes me want to travel west, and so I booked my flight to Phoenix and can’t wait to see the desert, Grand Canyon and Tucson. 

Right now, I’m on a reading frenzy. I have books lined up: The Secret Knowledge of Water, Following Esabella, Dakota, Marking the Sparrow’s Fall and more. 

I’ve also started listening to audiobooks while driving. This was suggested to me by my friend Missy. I’ve mostly listened to music while driving all over East Tennessee. I live in the country so it’s a 15 minute drive minimum to anywhere I want to go except for the grocery store which is two miles down the road. YAY. I’m listening to Big Rock Candy Mountain by Wallace Stegner. Next up: Angle of Repose. I didn’t think I’d be able to concentrate on the words while driving but I can now lose myself in his descriptions of the midwest and west, his characters and their lives. 

Reading and traveling make me question everything, and that is always good for me. It makes me reevaluate my choices and where I live. I live in the south and after one year, I truly like living here and enjoy learning about this region. I’m reading books about its history, about Great Smoky Mountains National Park and nonfiction from local writers. 

As much as I like living here, and feel at home here, it’s always been a pattern of my thinking that I need to go away from a place, even if it’s just for a few days, to really appreciate it. I need that distance to think about my feelings towards a place I chose. Yes, I like living here but why do I really like it? One of the hard things to get used to living in East Tennessee is how far west in the eastern time zone it is; it is so dark in the morning. Right now, the sunrise is at 6:45 am and can’t walk dogs or run in pitch black for safety; from wildlife or crazy people.  

Distance helps me sort out complicated feelings of home, place and choices. In the last 25 years, home has always been where my dogs are. Could this be my forever home, a place I own and where all my stuff is? 

I’ve been told that if you don’t own a home you are considered homeless by the government. All these years I’ve been homeless while searching for my forever place. So there is this to think about while traveling and walking around the desert. 

I do know that as soon as I start writing packing lists and preparing dogs for the kennel my travel anxiety will begin. As much as I love being away from home, or the place I live, I will miss it and can’t wait to get back home again.