Ramsey Cascade in September

Last weekend I decided to run/hike to Ramsey Cascade in Great Smoky Mountains National Park. I needed more than 8 miles for my training plan so I parked at the bridge that crosses Middle Prong at the intersection of Greenbrier Road. The total miles for the day: 11.2 miles and 2,680 feet of elevation gain. 

Parking remotely turned out to be the best idea because trailhead parking for Ramsey Cascade fills up quickly, and when I ran through the parking area on the way back there were many strange parking jobs where multiple cars looked stuck. And so many people by noon. 

I started early as always and only passed four hikers going up on this Sunday in September.

Trail maintenance has been ongoing during the week. Rock steps and ladders are this hiker’s dream. The closer to the end of the trail, the more ladders are present.  This construction does close this trail right now Monday through Thursday. 

The Ramsey Cascade trail is about 60% runnable. There are rocky parts and steep parts, and various flats and straight up parts; it’s a trail runner’s dream. When I cross streams or get close enough to the rushing water, I am able to throw water over my head and splash my face with the cool water to stay cool.

My favorite part of this trail is looking for the huge Tulip Poplar tree. I’ve seen so many old time photos of people holding hands around this tree for perspective. One day I will do the same if I hike it with a group of people. 

The closer I get to the waterfall the louder the water becomes and it’s thrilling to see the white cascades through the trees on approach. The waterfall is spectacular as always and I could stare at it for hours. This was my second time on this trail and first time trying to run it as much as I could. 

As I headed down I talked to another solo hiker and she told the story of how she comes to Gatlinburg every year and likes to hike this trail. Before all the new trail construction the boulders were so big that an older man got stuck and search and rescue had to get him. I told her how thankful I was for the trail maintenance done on this trail. It such a popular, it really is needed. I passed about 30 people going up. 

The leaves aren’t changing yet but I can’t wait to get back there for another run and see the fall colors. 

This week I finished reading Strangers in High Places; The Story of the Great Smoky Mountains by Michael Frome. The book is so good, so compelling, so well written, that I read it in a week. I like how Frome starts with the Eastern Cherokee history, and sad removal, and then moves to the mountain people and lumbermen. He writes about the moonshiners and revenuers (IRS), bears and all about the park’s boars/pigs.

The longest section is about the legislation surrounding the Smokies becoming a protected national park. He writes about land transactions surrounding the creation of the park and all of the ongoing personal interests that are threats to it. He wrote about Horace Kephart, and how Kephart left his family and moved to the North Carolina woods to start over. He later became a folk hero to many mountain people. I had to learn more about him so I’m now reading Our Southern HighlandersThe full text is here courtesy of The Project Gutenberg.

I would argue that these two books should be required reading for anyone who loves the Great Smokies and wants to understand its history. 

August hike to Charlies Bunion GSMNP

The hike on Sunday to Charlie’s Bunion was a great day to be in the mountains. As I started on the AT from Newfound Gap I was thankful for cool temperatures and to see a few other solo, women hikers on the trail. I saw a few trail workers and hikers who have been on the trail a few days. 

I love being on the AT. While I do not have aspirations to through-hike this trail, I can appreciate the patience and dedication it takes to complete the feat. 

While hiking I was thinking of the book I’m reading, Following Isabella Travels in Colorado Then and Now. Since I’m traveling to Colorado soon I wanted to get in the Colorado spirit by reading about its history by Robert Root. But it got me thinking about the trip I just booked to Maine. I thought I should start reading a book about Maine to get in the spirit of traveling there. I start thinking about what I should read and Sarh Orne Jewett comes to mind. I have her biography and I’ve been to her house in South Berwick. I obsessively read about her many years ago. 

As I’m hiking I remember reading about Willa Cather and how she and Jewett wrote letters to each other, encouraging each other in their writing life. That advice is good: “Find a quiet place with the best companions.” Which is what I’m always unknowingly searching for in this life. 

While hiking I think of so many things I want to do. My mind wanders to books and people and places, and suddenly I’m deep into the mountains.

After 4 miles, I climbed to the rocky top of Charlie’s Bunion with expansive views of the mountain peaks. 

I hope to one day learn all the names of the peaks I see but for today, I just took in the view and was happy to be in the Smoky Mountains. 

On the way back to the car I talked to a father who was hiking with his two young girls. They hiked to the Jump Off for the sunrise. I love seeing young kids hiking on big trails. The girls were sweet and seemed thrilled to be hiking this morning. 

I passed about 15 people on the way back to the car, and I even saw one man in flip flops. 

I’m glad to be back hiking and running regularly. My training plan for the next 12 weeks is a long run on Saturday and a hike/run on Sunday. This plan is going to help me complete miles on the 900 miles map. As of today, I have completed 48.9 miles and I’m 2% done. Next week is Alum Trail to LeConte.

Review of Murder at the Jumpoff

I like how the story includes chapters that take place in New Hampshire’s White Mountains. I also like how I found this book after hiking many of the trails in Greenbrier in GSMNP. I’ve  been on a lot of the trails in the book except for the manways. As I read the book I just kept thinking what a funny name to call the bushwhacking trails since I’ve always known them as organic trails; trails that the Forest Service despises in NH. I think it might be a Smokies thing.

I’m not a big murder mystery reader but the landscape of this  book held me close. I couldn’t put down the book. I really enjoyed how each chapter switched back and forth from each character’s perspective. I liked the characters especially Hatsy, Sally and Hector. 

Before and after reading the book I kept Googling the author, wanting to find out more about her. I wondered which character she was like; probably Hatsy. But I wondered why the author committed suicide? She had such an interesting life and lived in many different places, and was such a talented writer.  The mountains called her, and she moved around a lot. She travelled and lived in beautiful places like Colorado, New Hampshire and Vermont – all places I’ve lived and loved, primarily for their mountain landscapes. 

This book found me after I’d stopped hiking in the park for a bit, getting distracted by other life things.  I was frustrated that I couldn’t hike with dogs on trails, plus it was getting hot and humid. However, the last few weeks, every weekend I went to Greenbrier on a different trail. It was easy to get to – I didn’t have to drive through Gatlinburg on a weekend. And I was always on a time limit since I didn’t want my new pup to be in his crate for more than 5 hours. When I started reading the book, I wanted to hike more and get to know this park. 

I don’t have a desire, even after finishing the book to hike off trail – I like hiking and trail running on trails; this book was just a new perspective on the park. The characters in her book loved the challenges of the mountains and exploring the landscapes I love, too. 

In an interview the author said, “To me, off-trail hiking is a magical journey, a quest to discover incredible places that practically no one ever sees.”

I like reading books that take place somewhere I know. Scenes in this book took place in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, Sevierville and Knoxville. It allowed me to enjoy the book more that the story took place here. Plus, the final chapter takes places in the White Mountains and the scene is a mountain I know. 

Excellent book. Here is a link to a story about her and her death:

Jenny’s obituary

Spring in the Smokies, adopting dogs, running

Kassandra visited last weekend and we had an excellent time seeing all the sights: Great Smoky Mountains National Park, SkyLift Park, breakfast at 5 Oaks Farm, the knife shop and Harrisburg Covered Bridge. 

An added bonus, she got to meet Chet, my adopted pup. 

Getting Chet was a bit of an adjustment. I’ve been wanting a third dog for a year and now that I have the perfect house with a yard, I couldn’t wait any longer when the perfect black lab mix appeared at the Sevier County Humane Society where I walk shelter dogs on the weekend. 

Chet has been here almost two weeks and all his puppy traits are still on display: puppy belly, chasing Goldie around the house, endless energy and squishy skin. I love him. 

The trees and flowers are all in bloom and it is gorgeous here. The down side, Winnie-dog is itching and scratching like crazy, poor girl.

Now it’s time to get back to what I do: running, training, signing up for races. It’s a little late for the race coming next weekend but I’m still going to the UROCK race. It will be great fun to see the Blue Ridge Parkway and explore the south a bit. Once I’m back it’s getting ready for summer racing. 

The weather has been perfect in the 60s and 70s. We had a few 80 degree days but mostly 60s and in the high 40s in the morning. I’m heading out on a hike in the park this morning to check off a few more miles on my 900 miles in GSMNP challenge. Hopefully we will not run into any bears.

Gatlinburg to Townsend in Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Yesterday I took the dogs on a drive through Great Smoky Mountains National Park. My mission: to just drive and enjoy the landscape. This is the first time since moving here that I went into the park with the sole focus of just taking in the beauty instead of searching for a trailhead and hiking to a summit. 

It was a perfect day because it was cloudy and raining – and a Monday! Traffic was light and the sun came out a few times. Once in the park I decided to follow the signs to Townsend

With the rain, the multicolored leaves were on prime display. 

Driving back to Gatlinburg

Dogs are not allowed on trails in the park but they can be in the car and get out along the roadside. We got out of the  car a few times to sniff and take some pictures. 

We arrived in Townsend and discovered that it has more open land and less stores/attraction than Gatlinburg. It is definitely the quiet side of the park. We drove through town, turned around and came home. The only wildlife we saw was a few turkeys on the side of the road.

While I didn’t check off any trails on the GSMNP900 list, I became more familiar with the roads and place names like Metcalf Bottoms. I really did feel like I was in the middle of a wilderness. The trailheads along the way had very little cars. What a peaceful beautiful place to recreate.