Author: Kristen Lodge

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Hiking Grinnell Glacier Trail in July

The road to Grinnell Glacier in the Many Glacier area of Glacier National Park is very remote and I’m a little nervous as I drive from East Glacier to the Grinnell Glacier trailhead. Yesterday I hiked the Highline Trail and probably didn’t eat and drink enough so I’m feeling under fueled. It’s 6am and the only thing I’ve eaten is a granola bar and water. I left Glacier Park Lodge at 4:30am and nothing is open to get a real meal before this hike. 

I enter the park with my bought-yesterday reservation to enter Many Glacier after 6am. I’m not feeling great about today’s hike and I see a sign for Many Glacier Hotel. I turn left into the parking lot to procrastinate my hike and explore this historic hotel. I park and walk into the lodge. There just so happens to be a beautiful breakfast buffet and I know this is my chance to fuel up and go into the Grinnell Glacier hike with a great mindset. 

I eat a full buffet breakfast: eggs, bacon, fruit, potatoes, coffee. I drink a second cup of coffee. To top it off, I have a view of Swiftcurrent Lake. I’m now in the right mindset. I’m not rushing. I’m not worrying. Well, maybe a little bit. I worry about getting a parking spot at the trailhead which fills up fast, like everything here in the summer at Glacier National Park. 

Additional good fortune: the weather is working for me – it’s overcast, cloudy and threatening rain. Yesterday on Highline trail after 10am I was in full sun burning to a crisp, or so I thought. 

After a full breakfast and contemplating my life mesmerized by the lake, I’m ready to hike to the glacier I hiked when I was 17. You see, I’ve been preparing for this hike for a while. I’ve been weightlifting, running and hiking. I’m 36 years older and know I need to be ready. I want to see that freaking glacier. 

I’m hiking solo but I have my InReach Mini 2 active and am communicating my plans with my BFF Mark. I’m not carrying bear spray but I do have bear bells. 

I land a good parking spot and head out on the 5 plus miles to Grinnell Glacier. There are bear warnings posted. I am hiking this trail solo only because it is a super popular trail and I don’t think I’ll be alone much.

I try to stay close to other hikers. I pass a group and look for the next group. I think I hike fast because I’m scared. And I’m trying to get through being scared faster. I keep looking for people and there’s tons of them; I’m rarely alone.

When I do have alone moments I sing songs. Out of nowhere comes a song I haven’t sung in a while. I’m deep breathing and these lines come out of my mouth “I’m just breathing, breathing in and out. Trying to get through this thing called life.” 

The last time I sang this song, not outloud, was when I was swimming in the Gulf during Ironman Florida. It’s such a great song. I’m trying to find people and hike with them for a little bit but then when I can’t I sing this song as loud as I can to keep the bears away: 

“I’m just breathing. Breathing in and out. Taking it all in and I’m living with some doubt. I’m just breathing and I’m trusting in your words, knowing you can hear me Lord. You always take my breath away, sometimes you take me by surprise.” 

I talk to a lot of people and I get to the glacier overlook. The glacier is amazing. I don’t necessarily remember it but I’ve read so much about the glacier and how it has receded that I feel like I know it. I’m so happy to be here. It was a hard hike especially after yesterday’s hike. I rejoice in the beauty and not seeing a grizzly. 

I take a few pictures then head back.

I am wearing my Knoxville Motus race shirt on this trail because it’s the best feeling shirt next to my skin, and it wicks sweat a bit. I like being comfortable. A group passes me as I head down and the last man looks at my shirt and then asks me, You from Knoxville? I say yes. He tells me he is from Winchester. I say, isn’t it great to be out west? He smiles and asks, You a Vols fan? I say, don’t you have to be? 

I pass the family that offered to hike with them on the way up. They have a five-year-old daughter hiking the entire trail, which impressed me more than anything. I love seeing young kids hiking these trails; it will be a memory to last a lifetime, I’m sure of it. The father tells me there is a Bighorn Sheep ahead that I will see; I’ve never seen one.  

This is a life affirming hike today because I am fortunate for so many things at this moment. I’m so thankful and I pray a lot during this hike. I think about how I do so many of these adventures scared. I moved to Tennessee scared. I hiked Mount Washington in winter, scared. I left a bad job scared. I just do things scared. I’m very thankful for my friends who talk me down from the ledge when I get overwhelmed from doing things scared. 

As I hike back to my car, I’m so thankful to have a good day and that I get the chance to come back and visit this place I love. 

36 years ago I had no idea what my future held; I still don’t. Montana was always my dream; I say this all the time. Meaning that I thought I would live in Montana and make a life here one day. Maybe it was just a dream about a place to visit and get to know over time.  Who knows; there’s always time, there’s always time.

Regardless, today’s hike was one of the best days of my life. 

Distance: 10.2 miles.
Time: 3 hrs, 51 mins
What I ate: GORP, Kind Protein Bar
What I drank: 1 L water
What I wore: Salomon hydration vest, rabbit Speed Leggy Shorts, Motus race top, Glacier National Park hat. 
What I saw: Big Horn Sheep, mule deer, hoary marmot, columbia ground squirrel

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Big Creek Great Smoky Mountains in July

I have been wanting to do this hike for a long time. I wanted to see about the swimming hole and to hike on the North Carolina side of the Smokies. But really, I just love the name: Big Creek. A big name and a famous swimming hole. 

The trail was a perfect option the day after a big trail run. It was a gradual ascent and felt like a leisurely hike up the creek; despite Strava saying it was a 919 foot descent for 3.5 miles

The swarming bugs and spider webs were in full force this morning. Ugh. We saw lots of horse poop and eventually two horses. 

We stopped at Midnight Hole and saw fish in the water. Can you see it in the photo below, between the two rocks?

We saw Mouse Creek Falls cascading into Big Creek.

We crossed one bridge and chatted with a couple from Michigan who were heading up for an overnight backpacking trip. They told us the Backcountry Campsite 37 was closed due to bear activity, which I didn’t know about. Once I got home I verified this on the park’s website, and yes, it is indeed closed. 

I need to be checking this page before hiking. 

I also need to buy a Garmin InReach.

I’ve been thinking about getting one for a few months now and it’s time to invest. I plan to spend a lot of time on trails this year, and every year for that matter. It’s time. 

Since this was my first time on Big Creek trail I didn’t know that the creek is usually much higher. Melani, who I frequently hike with said that the water is very low. It’s very dry in Sevier County; we need rain. The forecast is calling for clouds and thunderstorms this week. Here’s hoping it’s just rains.

It was a good day to be on the trail.

Distance: 7 miles.
Time: 2 hrs, 37 mins
What I ate: peanut butter and jelly sandwich.
What I drank: .5 L water
What I wore: Salomon hydration vest, CW-X compression shorts, Motus race top, Pistol Ultra baseball hat
What I saw: fish in the water (trout maybe), 2 horses, a few butterflies, 6 trail runners, 15 hikers going to the water hole.

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Race Review: Haw Ridge Trail Run, Oak Ridge TN

The race starts and finishes at the Haw Ridge Life Development Center on Old Edgemoor Drive in Oak Ridge, Tennessee. 

I loved, and was tortured by, the first two miles of steep uphill. Then after the last steep climb on tippy toes, it was a steep, downhill treacherous hike to get to the meandering, up and down fun single track trail for the remainder of the course.  

After the initial climb and descent the trail ran down to a lake and skirted it for many miles. I wanted to jump in it because it was so hot and needed to cool off, but erred on the side of caution. The trees kept us a little cool; the benefits of trail running in the summer. 

There was a train in the distance hooting its horn; I love trains. All the runners were in good spirits and I think they enjoyed the trail as much as I did. The single track was so well maintained and since it hasn’t rained in weeks, the course was in perfect condition filled with many rocks and roots. 

The race description said 8 miles. It was 8.7. I’m not complaining, now that I’m writing this, because it was a GREAT course. At the 8 mile mark my brain wanted to see the finish line, but it was another 10 minutes away. 

It was nice to get out of Sevier County for a few hours and explore the woods in Tennessee. 

I signed up for this race series so I could get to know trails outside of where I live. The Treadin’ Trodden Trails race series is top notch. So far I’ve run trails at IC King which is similar to Haw Ridge in that it is for mountain biking, too. 

I’m looking forward to the next race in the series, The Trail That Can’t Be Concord. All the website says is that it will be at The Appalachian Mountain Bike Club (AMBC) at this address: 11813 S Northshore Drive. I can’t wait to run this new-to-me trail. 

Click this link to view information on this area from a mountain bike perspective. I need to get back here with my bike. 

Race Website: https://runsignup.com/hawridgetrailrace 
Distance: 8.7 miles.
Time: 1 hr, 58 mins
What I ate: Pre-race: English muffin, half peanut butter and jelly sandwich. During race: one GU gel, 6 Skratch Labs Sport Energy Chews (towards the end and they helped)
What I drank: two bottles tailwind endurance fuel, 1 L water
What I wore: Salomon hydration vest, CW-X compression shorts, Little Rock marathon race top, Pistol Ultra baseball hat
What I saw: no wildlife, 250 people entered the race

Rate this trail run: 10/10

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Ramsey Cascade Hike, July

Today’s hike on Ramsey Cascade trail in Greenbriar was steamy on this Saturday in July. All the giant tulip poplar trees and ferns and wildflowers created a temperate rainforest. I’m was dripping sweat. Fortunately, there were several stream crossings and places where I could splash cool-ish water on my face and dip my hat into the water to cool off. 

The hike was as tough as always, even as I get into better shape, it’s still a killer climb: rocks, roots and ladders.  

As I climbed higher and surrounded by leafy green trees, I had to stop in my tracks to listen. A bird sings, loudly, and the Ramsey Prong of the Little Pigeon River roars. I’m not sure what the bird was but what a beautiful song to listen to in this moment. Watch here. 

I continue on with only four people coming down ahead of me. We all got early starts. 

I approached the falls and it was as spectacular as always. This was my fifth time hiking Ramsey Cascade. This time I walked through the water and got as close as I ever have to the falls and filmed it. The cool air from the water felt so good. Watch here. 

I waved to the two hikers eating sandwiches on the big rock; we were all so happy to be in this place. 

I turned around and headed down the trail.

Michael Frome wrote in his popular book, Strangers in High Places, about Ramsey Cascade and Arthur Stupka who back in the 50s and 60s led the annual Spring Wildflower Pilgrimage in the Smokies, “We all hike … for different reasons. Some take to the trails for solitude … others look for natural beauty, finding their wonder in the trees, wildflowers, and wild animals. The scientists hike in order to study and advance the knowledge of the human race about the planet on which it lives. Others want to match their muscles and stamina against the long trails to the highlands. It does not make much difference really, why we hike, or tramp, or walk as long as the trails and the expansive natural environment are there so we can do these things. ” (326) 

I’m in the later category, I always have been. 

As I get closer to my car I notice Swallowtail butterflies lining the trail. They form bunches and then fly off together as I pass. I see more in the parking lot and the road back to Route 321. I don’t know that they are Swallowtails until I get home and Google it. 

It was a good day to be on the trails. 

Stats:

Distance: 8 miles.
Time: 3 hrs, 5 mins
What I ate: half peanut butter and jelly sandwich, one granola bar, a few handfuls GORP
What I drank: a bottle tailwind endurance fuel, 1 L water
What I wore: Salomon hydration vest, CW-X compression shorts, Little Rock marathon race top, L100 baseball hat
What I saw: Swallowtail butterflies, not many people, majestic 90 ft waterfall

Rate this hike: 10/10

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Glacier National Park, Whitefish Part 2

I drive back to Montana in awe of the Canadian Rockies. I was there two days and I want to go back. As I enter the United States the mountain seem smaller, less dramatic. 

My new basecamp for two days is Whitefish. I’ve never been here before and I walk around the downtown and depot. I check out the trains and the historic signs. There are trains blowing their whistles which is such a western sound in my mind. Tomorrow is race day and I’m not super excited about it. I’m actually looking forward to the after-race travel back to Glacier National Park and Polebridge. 

Back at the hotel I rent a kayak and paddle north on the Whitefish River. It’s been a long time since I’ve been on water like this. Very relaxing and just seeing where it goes. The day was stormy and I am taking a chance that I get poured on, but worth it.

The Whitefish Half Marathon isn’t  as scenic as the full marathon would have been. The half starts at the Amtrak depot downtown and runners head southeast into a residential, ranching area. The course loops around and through a park, then back into town. It is fairly flat and uneventful. The full marathon runs by the lake and close to the ski resort. I wish I trained better and ran the full. 

I finish the half and I’m sore. It was perfect running weather: sunny and cool.  I don’t stay around the finish. I walked back to my hotel, shower and head for the true adventure: Glacier National Park. 

The plan is to spend the entire afternoon in the place I spent five days back in 1988 – Polebridge. I want to see the mercantile and explore Bowman Lake. 

I drive toward Polebridge and the drive is mostly dirt road. I make the final turn and I see it. It looks so familiar. I park and walk around trying to find the hostel we stayed in and the river we played in. I don’t find the hostel and go into the mercantile to see if anyone knows about it. The woman at the counter is new and doesn’t know about a hostel that was in operation 36 years ago (ha!). The area I think it is in has no trespassing signs. 

It’s okay, I buy a sweatshirt and head into the park and Bowman Lake. 

The road to Bowman Lake is narrow, bumpy and not well maintained. It is slow going. But once I see the lake everything gets better. It is a cloudy day but the view is spectacular.

I’m not sure if I remember this lake but what I really remember is Numa Ridge trail to the lookout. Our group in 1988 hiked it wearing bear bells. We got to the lookout and saw the door with 200 spikes that was used to block the stairway to protect lookouts from the grizzly bears!

I also remember that once I got home years later I came across the essay from Edward Abbey, Fire Lookout – Numa Ridge in his book, The Journey Home: Some Words in the Defense of the American West. 

I’VE BEEN THERE. I read his essay and just understood what he was talking about.

I don’t have enough time to hike the 11 mile round trip to the lookout, and I don’t have bear bells or spray with me.  Another missed hike that I know I’ll be back to do. I do, however, hike in for about a mile, all while worrying about running into a bear and never being seen again. Instead, I do what I don’t ever seem to do in my life: I sit on a log and just watch the lake and sky.

I stay still and just watch. I think about being in this moment at Bowman Lake in Glacier National Park, Montana and how happy I am to be here in this place, again. 

I drive back to Whitefish for my final night in Montana. In the morning I drive south  back to Missoula and the airport.

That trip 36 years ago ignited in me the love of the west, the love of mountain and hiking, and national parks. And really, it showed me at a young age how to see the world. Sign up for a trip where you don’t know anyone and take a chance that you will see things you’ve never seen before.

I feel like this trip is a scouting mission because I want to go back to Montana and hike to the glacial lakes. Stay tuned for further adventures.