I have been wanting to do this hike for a long time. I wanted to see about the swimming hole and to hike on the North Carolina side of the Smokies. But really, I just love the name: Big Creek. A big name and a famous swimming hole.
The trail was a perfect option the day after a big trail run. It was a gradual ascent and felt like a leisurely hike up the creek; despite Strava saying it was a 919 foot descent for 3.5 miles
The swarming bugs and spider webs were in full force this morning. Ugh. We saw lots of horse poop and eventually two horses.
We stopped at Midnight Hole and saw fish in the water. Can you see it in the photo below, between the two rocks?
We saw Mouse Creek Falls cascading into Big Creek.
We crossed one bridge and chatted with a couple from Michigan who were heading up for an overnight backpacking trip. They told us the Backcountry Campsite 37 was closed due to bear activity, which I didn’t know about. Once I got home I verified this on the park’s website, and yes, it is indeed closed.
I’ve been thinking about getting one for a few months now and it’s time to invest. I plan to spend a lot of time on trails this year, and every year for that matter. It’s time.
Since this was my first time on Big Creek trail I didn’t know that the creek is usually much higher. Melani, who I frequently hike with said that the water is very low. It’s very dry in Sevier County; we need rain. The forecast is calling for clouds and thunderstorms this week. Here’s hoping it’s just rains.
It was a good day to be on the trail.
Distance: 7 miles. Time: 2 hrs, 37 mins What I ate: peanut butter and jelly sandwich. What I drank: .5 L water What I wore: Salomon hydration vest, CW-X compression shorts, Motus race top, Pistol Ultra baseball hat What I saw: fish in the water (trout maybe), 2 horses, a few butterflies, 6 trail runners, 15 hikers going to the water hole.
The race starts and finishes at the Haw Ridge Life Development Center on Old Edgemoor Drive in Oak Ridge, Tennessee.
I loved, and was tortured by, the first two miles of steep uphill. Then after the last steep climb on tippy toes, it was a steep, downhill treacherous hike to get to the meandering, up and down fun single track trail for the remainder of the course.
After the initial climb and descent the trail ran down to a lake and skirted it for many miles. I wanted to jump in it because it was so hot and needed to cool off, but erred on the side of caution. The trees kept us a little cool; the benefits of trail running in the summer.
There was a train in the distance hooting its horn; I love trains. All the runners were in good spirits and I think they enjoyed the trail as much as I did. The single track was so well maintained and since it hasn’t rained in weeks, the course was in perfect condition filled with many rocks and roots.
The race description said 8 miles. It was 8.7. I’m not complaining, now that I’m writing this, because it was a GREAT course. At the 8 mile mark my brain wanted to see the finish line, but it was another 10 minutes away.
It was nice to get out of Sevier County for a few hours and explore the woods in Tennessee.
I signed up for this race series so I could get to know trails outside of where I live. The Treadin’ Trodden Trails race series is top notch. So far I’ve run trails at IC King which is similar to Haw Ridge in that it is for mountain biking, too.
I’m looking forward to the next race in the series, The Trail That Can’t Be Concord. All the website says is that it will be at The Appalachian Mountain Bike Club (AMBC) at this address: 11813 S Northshore Drive. I can’t wait to run this new-to-me trail.
Click this link to view information on this area from a mountain bike perspective. I need to get back here with my bike.
Race Website: https://runsignup.com/hawridgetrailrace Distance: 8.7 miles. Time: 1 hr, 58 mins What I ate: Pre-race: English muffin, half peanut butter and jelly sandwich. During race: one GU gel, 6 Skratch Labs Sport Energy Chews (towards the end and they helped) What I drank: two bottles tailwind endurance fuel, 1 L water What I wore: Salomon hydration vest, CW-X compression shorts, Little Rock marathon race top, Pistol Ultra baseball hat What I saw: no wildlife, 250 people entered the race
Today’s hike on Ramsey Cascade trail in Greenbriar was steamy on this Saturday in July. All the giant tulip poplar trees and ferns and wildflowers created a temperate rainforest. I’m was dripping sweat. Fortunately, there were several stream crossings and places where I could splash cool-ish water on my face and dip my hat into the water to cool off.
The hike was as tough as always, even as I get into better shape, it’s still a killer climb: rocks, roots and ladders.
As I climbed higher and surrounded by leafy green trees, I had to stop in my tracks to listen. A bird sings, loudly, and the Ramsey Prong of the Little Pigeon River roars. I’m not sure what the bird was but what a beautiful song to listen to in this moment. Watch here.
I continue on with only four people coming down ahead of me. We all got early starts.
I approached the falls and it was as spectacular as always. This was my fifth time hiking Ramsey Cascade. This time I walked through the water and got as close as I ever have to the falls and filmed it. The cool air from the water felt so good. Watch here.
I waved to the two hikers eating sandwiches on the big rock; we were all so happy to be in this place.
I turned around and headed down the trail.
Michael Frome wrote in his popular book, Strangers in High Places, about Ramsey Cascade and Arthur Stupka who back in the 50s and 60s led the annual Spring Wildflower Pilgrimage in the Smokies, “We all hike … for different reasons. Some take to the trails for solitude … others look for natural beauty, finding their wonder in the trees, wildflowers, and wild animals. The scientists hike in order to study and advance the knowledge of the human race about the planet on which it lives. Others want to match their muscles and stamina against the long trails to the highlands. It does not make much difference really, why we hike, or tramp, or walk as long as the trails and the expansive natural environment are there so we can do these things. ” (326)
I’m in the later category, I always have been.
As I get closer to my car I notice Swallowtail butterflies lining the trail. They form bunches and then fly off together as I pass. I see more in the parking lot and the road back to Route 321. I don’t know that they are Swallowtails until I get home and Google it.
It was a good day to be on the trails.
Stats:
Distance: 8 miles. Time: 3 hrs, 5 mins What I ate: half peanut butter and jelly sandwich, one granola bar, a few handfuls GORP What I drank: a bottle tailwind endurance fuel, 1 L water What I wore: Salomon hydration vest, CW-X compression shorts, Little Rock marathon race top, L100 baseball hat What I saw: Swallowtail butterflies, not many people, majestic 90 ft waterfall
I drive back to Montana in awe of the Canadian Rockies. I was there two days and I want to go back. As I enter the United States the mountain seem smaller, less dramatic.
My new basecamp for two days is Whitefish. I’ve never been here before and I walk around the downtown and depot. I check out the trains and the historic signs. There are trains blowing their whistles which is such a western sound in my mind. Tomorrow is race day and I’m not super excited about it. I’m actually looking forward to the after-race travel back to Glacier National Park and Polebridge.
Back at the hotel I rent a kayak and paddle north on the Whitefish River. It’s been a long time since I’ve been on water like this. Very relaxing and just seeing where it goes. The day was stormy and I am taking a chance that I get poured on, but worth it.
The Whitefish Half Marathon isn’t as scenic as the full marathon would have been. The half starts at the Amtrak depot downtown and runners head southeast into a residential, ranching area. The course loops around and through a park, then back into town. It is fairly flat and uneventful. The full marathon runs by the lake and close to the ski resort. I wish I trained better and ran the full.
I finish the half and I’m sore. It was perfect running weather: sunny and cool. I don’t stay around the finish. I walked back to my hotel, shower and head for the true adventure: Glacier National Park.
The plan is to spend the entire afternoon in the place I spent five days back in 1988 – Polebridge. I want to see the mercantile and explore Bowman Lake.
I drive toward Polebridge and the drive is mostly dirt road. I make the final turn and I see it. It looks so familiar. I park and walk around trying to find the hostel we stayed in and the river we played in. I don’t find the hostel and go into the mercantile to see if anyone knows about it. The woman at the counter is new and doesn’t know about a hostel that was in operation 36 years ago (ha!). The area I think it is in has no trespassing signs.
It’s okay, I buy a sweatshirt and head into the park and Bowman Lake.
The road to Bowman Lake is narrow, bumpy and not well maintained. It is slow going. But once I see the lake everything gets better. It is a cloudy day but the view is spectacular.
I’m not sure if I remember this lake but what I really remember is Numa Ridge trail to the lookout. Our group in 1988 hiked it wearing bear bells. We got to the lookout and saw the door with 200 spikes that was used to block the stairway to protect lookouts from the grizzly bears!
I’VE BEEN THERE. I read his essay and just understood what he was talking about.
I don’t have enough time to hike the 11 mile round trip to the lookout, and I don’t have bear bells or spray with me. Another missed hike that I know I’ll be back to do. I do, however, hike in for about a mile, all while worrying about running into a bear and never being seen again. Instead, I do what I don’t ever seem to do in my life: I sit on a log and just watch the lake and sky.
I stay still and just watch. I think about being in this moment at Bowman Lake in Glacier National Park, Montana and how happy I am to be here in this place, again.
I drive back to Whitefish for my final night in Montana. In the morning I drive south back to Missoula and the airport.
That trip 36 years ago ignited in me the love of the west, the love of mountain and hiking, and national parks. And really, it showed me at a young age how to see the world. Sign up for a trip where you don’t know anyone and take a chance that you will see things you’ve never seen before.
I feel like this trip is a scouting mission because I want to go back to Montana and hike to the glacial lakes. Stay tuned for further adventures.
Running the Whitefish Marathon was the original plan six months ago when I booked my travel to northwest Montana. Most of my plans change dramatically especially in 2022 and 2023, and now into 2024. This plan changed, too. I am still on the hunt to run a marathon in every US state; I have finished 12 states – which is why this plan became a plan.
My training for a marathon starts out pretty well, following Training Peaks plan for several weeks. Then, I hit Week 8 and I miss days; I miss a key 16 mile run on the weekend. This is what happened with the Little Rock Marathon and the Whitefish Marathon.
What tends to happen is I drop down to the half marathon and start planning all the things I will see before and after the race. When you run a marathon, you usually don’t have the energy to travel and go see things. When I dropped to the half at Whitefish, my plan for Montana turned into travel to Banff, Canada and more. This is part 1. I’ll have to come back again, some day to complete a Montana marathon.
On May 15, Wednesday I flew into Missoula and drove to Kalispell. I checked into my hotel and drove east to West Glacier to spent the rest of the first travel day in Glacier National Park. May is such a perfect time to visit; there were no crowds and great temperatures; 67 degrees. I stopped at Lake McDonald Lodge and walked around the shore.
I promised myself I would stop at everything and read all the signs; and not rush through everything (which is my natural tendency because I want to see everything). I drive toward the Going to the Sun Road. I know it’s closed but I want to see if I can walk a few miles up. Instead, I walk the trails around Avalanche Lake trailhead and hike the Trail of the Cedars loop.
The trees and trail are gorgeous. I start to worry about bears but then see the turquoise water flowing down from Avalanche Lake and my worry dissipates. I keep walking and exploring. I read all the signs about the trees. I wish I had more time to hike to Avalanche Lake. I know I hiked this trail last time I was here but the sun is starting to set and I get nervous again. Next time, I say to myself, next time.
I drive back to Kalispell and wake up at 5am to drive to Banff. I cross the border and I’m driving through the freaking Canadian Rockies! They are just stunning and I’m on the Trans-Canada highway just thrilled to be here. The mountains in the distance are huge. The rivers are turquoise. I’m here with the biggest smile on my face.
I’m so extremely happy because I didn’t get to come to Banff 36 years ago on my first trip out west. I came west from New Hampshire in 1988 on a Youth Hostel trip. Our group traveled and hiked, and stayed in hostels in all the western National Parks. We went to Rocky Mountain National Park, Grand Teton National Park, Yellowstone National Park and Glacier National Park. We were supposed to go to Banff, but couldn’t since the trip leader forgot her Australian passport. We couldn’t drive into Canada so we staying those extra days in the hostel in Polebridge, later hiking Numa Ridge near Bowman Lake, and playing in the North Fork of the Flathead River.
I drive into Banff and it’s not what I expect; it’s better. The downtown is small with huge mountains surrounding the town.
Light rain falls as I head toward the Banff Gondola. I really should hike to the top of Sulphur Mountain but I want to have enough time to do everything. I’m here for one night and want to explore. The gondola was a great way to get to the top and see the view that I’d been watching for months from their webcam. I walk the boardwalk to explore the top and see hikers coming up the trail.
The top of the mountain has an interpretative center with videos and photos to learn about the area. I read mostly everything.
I walk around town, eat and check into my hotel, The Moose. I take a sauna and swim in the rooftop pool. It reminds me of living in Steamboat Springs where I started training to be a triathlete. I would swim in the Old Town Hot Springs thermal heated pool and sit in the sauna after. This is what I needed to end my day in Banff. An absolutely perfect day. As I start to leave the rooftop area, it starts to snow. I walk around town and find a place to eat – Sushi!
The next morning it’s time to run – I need some cardio. As I leave the hotel it is snowing with about an inch on the ground. It is 2 miles to the top of Tunnel Mountain with 900 feet of elevation gain.
I’m so happy to be running in the snow and there is no one in sight; and there are no views. I read the trail description and know that there is wildlife here and I should be on guard. And like always, about a mile in I get nervous and think of turning back. But then ahead of me, out of the snow swirling a woman hikes toward me, coming down from the top. If she can do it, I can do it. I carry on. View my video of my run/hike here.
I get back to the hotel, shower, pack and head to breakfast. I love Canada so much. Steaming coffee, and just a perfect presentation.
And start the beautiful drive back to Montana through a snow storm.
