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Ramsey Cascade Hike, July

Today’s hike on Ramsey Cascade trail in Greenbriar was steamy on this Saturday in July. All the giant tulip poplar trees and ferns and wildflowers created a temperate rainforest. I’m was dripping sweat. Fortunately, there were several stream crossings and places where I could splash cool-ish water on my face and dip my hat into the water to cool off. 

The hike was as tough as always, even as I get into better shape, it’s still a killer climb: rocks, roots and ladders.  

As I climbed higher and surrounded by leafy green trees, I had to stop in my tracks to listen. A bird sings, loudly, and the Ramsey Prong of the Little Pigeon River roars. I’m not sure what the bird was but what a beautiful song to listen to in this moment. Watch here. 

I continue on with only four people coming down ahead of me. We all got early starts. 

I approached the falls and it was as spectacular as always. This was my fifth time hiking Ramsey Cascade. This time I walked through the water and got as close as I ever have to the falls and filmed it. The cool air from the water felt so good. Watch here. 

I waved to the two hikers eating sandwiches on the big rock; we were all so happy to be in this place. 

I turned around and headed down the trail.

Michael Frome wrote in his popular book, Strangers in High Places, about Ramsey Cascade and Arthur Stupka who back in the 50s and 60s led the annual Spring Wildflower Pilgrimage in the Smokies, “We all hike … for different reasons. Some take to the trails for solitude … others look for natural beauty, finding their wonder in the trees, wildflowers, and wild animals. The scientists hike in order to study and advance the knowledge of the human race about the planet on which it lives. Others want to match their muscles and stamina against the long trails to the highlands. It does not make much difference really, why we hike, or tramp, or walk as long as the trails and the expansive natural environment are there so we can do these things. ” (326) 

I’m in the later category, I always have been. 

As I get closer to my car I notice Swallowtail butterflies lining the trail. They form bunches and then fly off together as I pass. I see more in the parking lot and the road back to Route 321. I don’t know that they are Swallowtails until I get home and Google it. 

It was a good day to be on the trails. 

Stats:

Distance: 8 miles.
Time: 3 hrs, 5 mins
What I ate: half peanut butter and jelly sandwich, one granola bar, a few handfuls GORP
What I drank: a bottle tailwind endurance fuel, 1 L water
What I wore: Salomon hydration vest, CW-X compression shorts, Little Rock marathon race top, L100 baseball hat
What I saw: Swallowtail butterflies, not many people, majestic 90 ft waterfall

Rate this hike: 10/10

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Glacier National Park, Whitefish Part 2

I drive back to Montana in awe of the Canadian Rockies. I was there two days and I want to go back. As I enter the United States the mountain seem smaller, less dramatic. 

My new basecamp for two days is Whitefish. I’ve never been here before and I walk around the downtown and depot. I check out the trains and the historic signs. There are trains blowing their whistles which is such a western sound in my mind. Tomorrow is race day and I’m not super excited about it. I’m actually looking forward to the after-race travel back to Glacier National Park and Polebridge. 

Back at the hotel I rent a kayak and paddle north on the Whitefish River. It’s been a long time since I’ve been on water like this. Very relaxing and just seeing where it goes. The day was stormy and I am taking a chance that I get poured on, but worth it.

The Whitefish Half Marathon isn’t  as scenic as the full marathon would have been. The half starts at the Amtrak depot downtown and runners head southeast into a residential, ranching area. The course loops around and through a park, then back into town. It is fairly flat and uneventful. The full marathon runs by the lake and close to the ski resort. I wish I trained better and ran the full. 

I finish the half and I’m sore. It was perfect running weather: sunny and cool.  I don’t stay around the finish. I walked back to my hotel, shower and head for the true adventure: Glacier National Park. 

The plan is to spend the entire afternoon in the place I spent five days back in 1988 – Polebridge. I want to see the mercantile and explore Bowman Lake. 

I drive toward Polebridge and the drive is mostly dirt road. I make the final turn and I see it. It looks so familiar. I park and walk around trying to find the hostel we stayed in and the river we played in. I don’t find the hostel and go into the mercantile to see if anyone knows about it. The woman at the counter is new and doesn’t know about a hostel that was in operation 36 years ago (ha!). The area I think it is in has no trespassing signs. 

It’s okay, I buy a sweatshirt and head into the park and Bowman Lake. 

The road to Bowman Lake is narrow, bumpy and not well maintained. It is slow going. But once I see the lake everything gets better. It is a cloudy day but the view is spectacular.

I’m not sure if I remember this lake but what I really remember is Numa Ridge trail to the lookout. Our group in 1988 hiked it wearing bear bells. We got to the lookout and saw the door with 200 spikes that was used to block the stairway to protect lookouts from the grizzly bears!

I also remember that once I got home years later I came across the essay from Edward Abbey, Fire Lookout – Numa Ridge in his book, The Journey Home: Some Words in the Defense of the American West. 

I’VE BEEN THERE. I read his essay and just understood what he was talking about.

I don’t have enough time to hike the 11 mile round trip to the lookout, and I don’t have bear bells or spray with me.  Another missed hike that I know I’ll be back to do. I do, however, hike in for about a mile, all while worrying about running into a bear and never being seen again. Instead, I do what I don’t ever seem to do in my life: I sit on a log and just watch the lake and sky.

I stay still and just watch. I think about being in this moment at Bowman Lake in Glacier National Park, Montana and how happy I am to be here in this place, again. 

I drive back to Whitefish for my final night in Montana. In the morning I drive south  back to Missoula and the airport.

That trip 36 years ago ignited in me the love of the west, the love of mountain and hiking, and national parks. And really, it showed me at a young age how to see the world. Sign up for a trip where you don’t know anyone and take a chance that you will see things you’ve never seen before.

I feel like this trip is a scouting mission because I want to go back to Montana and hike to the glacial lakes. Stay tuned for further adventures.

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Glacier National Park, Banff in May Part 1

Running the Whitefish Marathon was the original plan six months ago when I booked my travel to northwest Montana. Most of my plans change dramatically especially in 2022 and 2023, and now into 2024. This plan changed, too. I am still on the hunt to run a marathon in every US state; I have finished 12 states – which is why this plan became a plan. 

My training for a marathon starts out pretty well, following Training Peaks plan for several weeks. Then, I hit Week 8 and I miss days; I miss a key 16 mile run on the weekend. This is what happened with the Little Rock Marathon and the Whitefish Marathon. 

What tends to happen is I drop down to the half marathon and start planning all the things I will see before and after the race. When you run a marathon, you usually don’t have the energy to travel and go see things. When I dropped to the half at Whitefish, my plan for Montana turned into travel to Banff, Canada and more. This is part 1. I’ll have to come back again, some day to complete a Montana marathon.

On May 15, Wednesday I flew into Missoula and drove to Kalispell. I checked into my hotel and drove east to West Glacier to spent the rest of the first travel day in Glacier National Park. May is such a perfect time to visit; there were no crowds and  great temperatures; 67 degrees. I stopped at Lake McDonald Lodge and walked around the shore.

I promised myself I would stop at everything and read all the signs; and not rush through everything (which is my natural tendency because I want to see everything). I drive toward the Going to the Sun Road. I know it’s closed but I want to see if I can walk a few miles up. Instead, I walk the trails around Avalanche Lake trailhead and hike the Trail of the Cedars loop.

The trees and trail are gorgeous. I start to worry about bears but then see the turquoise water flowing down from Avalanche Lake and my worry dissipates. I keep walking and exploring. I read all the signs about the trees. I wish I had more time to hike to Avalanche Lake. I know I hiked this trail last time I was here but the sun is starting to set and I get nervous again. Next time, I say to myself, next time. 

I drive back to Kalispell and wake up at 5am to drive to Banff. I cross the border and I’m driving through the freaking Canadian Rockies! They are just stunning and I’m on the Trans-Canada highway just thrilled to be here. The mountains in the distance are huge. The rivers are turquoise. I’m here with the biggest smile on my face.

I’m so extremely happy because I didn’t get to come to Banff 36 years ago on my first trip out west. I came west from New Hampshire in 1988 on a Youth Hostel trip. Our group traveled and hiked, and stayed in hostels in all the western National Parks. We went to Rocky Mountain National Park, Grand Teton National Park, Yellowstone National Park and Glacier National Park. We were supposed to go to Banff, but couldn’t since the trip leader forgot her Australian passport. We couldn’t drive into Canada so we staying those extra days in the hostel in Polebridge, later hiking Numa Ridge near Bowman Lake, and playing in the North Fork of the Flathead River. 

I drive into Banff and it’s not what I expect; it’s better. The downtown is small with huge mountains surrounding the town.

Light rain falls as I head toward the Banff Gondola. I really should hike to the top of Sulphur Mountain but I want to have enough time to do everything. I’m here for one night and want to explore.  The gondola was a great way to get to the top and see the  view that I’d been watching for months from their webcam. I walk the boardwalk to explore the top and see hikers coming up the trail.

The top of the mountain has an interpretative center with videos and photos to learn about the area. I read mostly everything. 

I walk around town, eat and check into my hotel, The Moose. I take a sauna and swim in the rooftop pool. It reminds me of living in Steamboat Springs where I started training to be a triathlete. I would swim in the Old Town Hot Springs thermal heated pool and sit in the sauna after. This is what I needed to end my day in Banff. An absolutely perfect day. As I start to leave the rooftop area, it starts to snow.  I walk around town and find a place to eat – Sushi!

The next morning it’s time to run – I need some cardio. As I leave the hotel it is snowing with about an inch on the ground. It is 2 miles to the top of Tunnel Mountain with 900 feet of elevation gain.

I’m so happy to be running in the snow and there is no one in sight; and there are no views. I read the trail description and know that there is wildlife here and I should be on guard. And like always, about a mile in I get nervous and think of turning back. But then ahead of me, out of the snow swirling a woman hikes toward me, coming down from the top. If she can do it, I can do it. I carry on. View my video of my run/hike here.

I get back to the hotel, shower, pack and head to breakfast. I love Canada so much. Steaming coffee, and just a perfect presentation.

And start the beautiful drive back to Montana through a snow storm.

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West to Little Rock

Go see the world, she said.

So I did.

Most of my racing and travel posts starts with a trip’s intent. If you are a frequent reader, you know that changes a lot especially right before the trip start.  

I signed up for the Little Rock Marathon six months ago. I signed up because I wanted to see Little Rock. I wanted to see the capital area, the Arkansas River and the Bill Clinton Presidential Library. I also wanted to drive into Oklahoma via the Trail of Tears byway. 

But first, a six-hour drive to Memphis where I stopped on the first night. I spent a few hours in the National Civil Rights Museum, 450 Mulberry Street. When you walk up to the museum, you see the Lorraine Motel as it was in 1968. In the museum they exhibit the history of the American Civil Rights Movement. Such well organized displays and thought provoking images. One exhibit shows what MLK’s hotel room looked like that he stayed in before he was shot. It felt strange to be walking around so much history that I’ve read about and watched on TV. I’m still processing what I saw and learned.

I walked through downtown, exploring and eating at a Mexican restaurant, reading area brochures and learning about Memphis. 

The next day, early start to Little Rock and packet pickup. I decided that I will run the half marathon instead of the full. I feel like dropping down in races is so 2023-of-me. However, the pattern continues in 2024. Please stand by. My race approach is evolving. But I digress…

I drove over the Arkansas River. The last time I saw this river was in Colorado last year when we visited the Royal Gorge. And now I see it as it joins the Mississippi in Arkansas. The Arkansas River is the second-longest tributary in the Mississippi-Missouri river system, originating near Leadville, Colorado – my favorite racecation destination. 

The entire registration was held in the Little Rock Convention Center. Using indoor. bathrooms is such a luxury with a big race like this. The dinosaur-themed race was festive with so many runners dressing silly. I was looking forward to race day.

After getting my bib, I drove to Little Rock Central High School. I walk around the grounds and read about the 1957 event and learn more about the Little Rock Nine.

I have enough time to drive to Fort Smith National Historic Site which is two hours from Little Rock. I walked through the historic fort and park, read the signs to learn about the fort’s history. I walked along the Arkansas River, which was heading towards Little Rock and the Mississippi.

Fort Smith trail walk on the Arkansas
In the park exhibit
the fort
late 19th century

I drove into Oklahoma, ate lunch and started back to Little Rock. 

I get back to the hotel, which is a half mile from the race start. Sometimes pre-trip planning doesn’t work out, but this time, the location works out to my advantage. And, it just so happens the Clinton Library is a short walk down the street. I walk around the campus since I missed open hours. There is some sort of fundraiser or event happening as I walk around; people are dressed up and entering the museum. 

Sunday: Race Day. I wake up at 4:30am for a 6am start. Originally the race was planned to start at 8am but due to unseasonable warm weather and humidity organized changed it to an early start. 

It’s 4:35 am and I really didn’t want to run. I wanted to sleep in and drive home. I get this way traveling sometimes; I just want to be home with my dogs. But then I force myself to remember this is a planned adventure. I want to do this. I want to run Little Rock.

Marathons (and shorter races) really allow me to see a place. I hemmed and hawed for a good 30 minutes and ultimately got up, put on my race clothes (read: big girl pants) and walked to the start. 

I was so happy to be at this start line. I always forget this.

The race start wasn’t what I expected, but almost nothing is anymore. 

There were thousands in the corral. Marathon and half marathoners all together in letter-labled areas. I was in E. 

I usually talk to people and get pumped up to start but today, I didn’t talk to anyone. I sat and stretched and took a few pictures. 

It took about five minutes to get to the start line and I just ran my pace. I no longer have a race pace – I have a pace I always run. My comfortable pace is between 10 and 11 minute miles. 

We ran through downtown and around a few residential areas and made our way back out to Central High School. The school’s marching band played for us as we ran by. Then suddenly I am at 13 miles and we are back to the start. The temperature was perfect: 55 and misting. No Sun! 

I’m so glad I finished this race. 

I walked back to the hotel and showered. I was sore! But I was also ready to head home. 

I drove home across the Arkansas River and the Mississippi River. I drove past Memphis and Nashville. As dark descended, and 8 hours had passed I was at Exit 407 and home was 30 minutes away. 

As of today, I have two states left to visit: Michigan and North Dakota. Let the trip planning begin.

How to fuel before a road trip: Flapjacks at Exit 407 Sevierville.

Go see the world.

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Day Three – Petrified Forest National Park and Saguaro NP

We woke up at 5am knowing that we had to get to Tucson before Saguaro NP closed at 4pm. Total mileage from Cortez, CO to Tucson, AZ: 538 miles. 

This time when we drove past Petrified Forest National Park it was open so we went in. 

I thought this was a small park off the side of the highway, but it ended up being a spectacular one hour drive south through an amazing landscape. 

Petrified Forest National Park was more that I ever expected. The views from driving through were beautiful, like a painting.

The Petroglyphs were so interesting to see and learn about the history of who did this to the rocks.

We got out and read the signs and learned about everything in the park. We stopped and walked the Blue Mesa Trail. We learned about how the trees became petrified and the climate change that caused them to be petrified. 

The biggest lesson learned on this trip is I want to know more about where I’m traveling before arriving. I would’ve liked to hike more trails in Petrified Forest. But also, it is sometimes hard to image a place and read about it before going there. Now, I’m reading more about this area and it makes more sense after being there. 

After exiting from the South Entrance it was onward to Tucson. The scenery is canyon and rock and desert. So many prickly pear. The cliffs made of sandstone dotted the landscape. We are in Apache country now. We drove through Tonto National Forest at an elevation of 5,840. 

Some of the signs I saw:

Truck Crossing
Free Wifi Wendy’s
Speedway – Fresh Coffee
Elevation 4,983
8% grade
Winkelman City Limits
Entering Pinal County
Aravaipa Creek
Biosphere 2
Entering Pima County

Saguaro National Park was exactly how I left it in 2015 – Gorgeous. We drove the road that I had run in a race and biked several times. The paved, hilly road that passed hundreds of Saguaros. 

Then we drove into Tucson met Kassandra for dinner and then back to Phoenix. The last day was a lot of driving in a beautiful landscape. I miss Tucson and I would love to live here again some day.