The historic Grand Canyon Lodge burned down. The lodge was consumed by a wildfire on Monday, July 14 and a fire still burns on the Kaibab Plateau as I write this.
Here’s a webcam from Kolb Studio at the South Rim looking north.
For me, this wildfire event is a reminder not to postpone my list. A List. Your List. The things-you-want-to-do-before-you-die list.
The list is now a things-to-see-before-they-disappear list.
Staying at this lodge was on my list; but not on my current list.
Here is a stock image of the lodge. I missed seeing this amazing place. I missed staying at this lodge.
Running the Rim-To-Rim (R2R) in a day was on my list (and staying at this lodge the night before), but not on my current list mainly because I haven’t been running or trail running as much lately – I’ve been in a running rut. It was POSTPONED.
If there are places I want to visit, things I want to see, I can’t put it off.
Our world is changing and things are disappearing.
I wish I had made it there.
There are places that are so special in our nation’s history: historic lodges and hotels in our National Parks are big in my book. These are my favorite places. I was so happy to go stay at the Glacier Park Hotel in 2024 after staying close to it on my trip through National Parks in 1988.
I don’t want to say I missed that opportunity to go see something special. I’m working on my NEW list and here is a start, these are the places I want to see before they disappear:
I am eager to see the world, I’m insatiably curious. I’m pretty fit and just love a good plan.
Carpe Diem, man.
And, if you made it this far, not to be dramatic or anything – my thoughts go right to this movie, One Week. I’ve watched it at least 10 times and watching it forces me to remember to ask the questions. You know the questions.
I spent the night in a cabin at Twin Lakes. I have the cabin for two nights and it’s a few miles from the trailhead for Hope Pass, which will be my second hike in two days.
On Saturday morning I was still recovering from the 10 mile hike in RMNP from yesterday and getting used to elevation. Twin Lakes sits at 9,600 ft and today my plan is to finally get to Hope Pass, 12,600 feet, after two Leadville 100 DNFs.
I found a restaurant that was open with a breakfast buffet. Similarly to how I felt last year the morning of my Grinnell Glacier hike, I needed eggs and coffee to get in the right mindset for the hike. The breakfast in Twin Lakes was okay but the eggs were a bit gross with tomatoes in them. The best part was the coffee and the pastry. Regardless, it gave me what I needed to get going.
I drove to the Willis Gulch Trailhead and started hiking. Two years ago I started this but didn’t go much farther than the CDT Trail.
I hiked to the CD Trail and headed south to Hope Pass.
A little way in I saw two bearded men hiking towards me with full packs. I got a bit choked up because I was so impressed that they were doing this super long trail; I wished I could be doing it, too. They wore a CDT badge on their shoulder strap. I asked them how long they’ve been on the trail and they said it’s been so long they lost count. They smiled, clearly happy to be on the trail.
I kept on and hiked slowly like yesterday. I kept thinking “what was I thinking” – when training for Leadville 100 and living at sea-level. I remember what I felt like at mile 38 during the 100 mile race and I couldn’t imagine running this trail to Hope Pass over and back in order to finish. I just never made it this far to know what I as in for. Today when saw runners heading up the Pass, I was in awe.
Hope Pass was fantastic. It wasn’t what it looked like in any the Leadville pictures but loved being there.
I headed down after a break and only wore a jacket to protect my skin. It was perfect hiking weather and only one patch of snow to cross.
I passed many heading up: hikers, runners, kids, dogs. All so happy to be out on the this gorgeous Saturday.
I had to pay attention and look for the sharp left turn to Willis Gulch Trail from the CDT. And it was a mile back to my car.
I was thrilled to make it to the top, and altitude sickness/headache subsided after getting down. The elevation is no joke and 3,330 feet of elevation gain.
I got back to my cabin and didn’t want to stay another night. I booked a hotel closer to the airport so I showered and packed up the car to head back to Denver.
I drove through Leadville and saw all the happy finishers who stuck around town after the Heavy Half Marathon and the Full Marathon race. I remembered when I did my best Leadville Marathon finish in 2019. I loved that year so much.
As I drove through the town, of which I dreamed about for years, I thought how much I loved the town, the race, and training for HARD RACES. I just don’t think I’m that athlete anymore. The athlete who can train hard and do these hard races. And just thinking that I’m done with it all makes me so sad. And writing it for this blog makes it so real.
I was so glad to be in Colorado and hike two big mountains/passes in two days. This trip has been so good for me, and is helping me face reality that maybe I’m more a hiker than an ultrarunner anymore.
Driving to Denver on Interstate 70 I thought how progressive Colorado is compared to Tennessee. Grocery stores in Colorado don’t use plastic bags and so many people have solar panels on their homes. I miss living in Colorado.
I got to my hotel and relaxed for a bit before heading out to find my last dinner in Colorado.
In the morning I ate a $35 breakfast at Elways at the airport. The meal was very pricey but I did enjoy the coffee and little bottle of jam for my biscuit.
As I waited for my flight, and trying to get some steps in, I saw this lighted advertisement at each gate in the terminal. It was a healthcare ad but I found it so true and inspiring for me. Here’s the close up of it – and here’s my sign to what’s next:
I arrived in Estes Park an hour later than I wanted to; primarily due to my flight departing late due to the Atlanta weather issue.
As I drove into this mountain town it was getting dark and I just needed to get something to eat. Luckily, the hotel restaurant had a cool burger restaurant / ale bar.
I tried to orient myself to this place. I’ve been here a handful of times but it all seems so new and was just discombobulated. Nothing seems familiar, which was funny because I used to be the girl who always wanted to see something new but I purposely have been going back to the places I’ve lived or spent time. It was a bit familiar but still seemed new.
I ate a burger and drank an IPA. I took a short walk down the road and saw a sliver of the moon before heading back and going to bed. Tomorrow was a big day.
In my typical fashion, I was wigged out and not sure what I would do. As I packed for the hike I thought maybe I’d just stay in this cute town and walk around instead of doing my hike tomorrow. I think about forgoing the 5am admission to Bear Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park I reserved when they first were available online months ago.
In the morning I was still uncertain what to do. I brushed my teeth. I looked around the hotel room and something in my brain clicks. I put on my trail runners, put in my contacts, filled my bladders with ice and water, and headed to my car ready to hike. I’m ready for this hike. I felt good.
As I drove into the park I thought how I would love to live here again. It just felt right. I knew Tennessee is not my forever place and maybe Colorado was. I missed my dogs and don’t like being without them but they are not allowed on trails in this national park.
I came here to hike Hallett Peak because I wanted to go back and do what I did when I took the American Youth Hostel trip in 1988. I was 17 and wanted to see the world.
Now, I want to go back to these places I visited in 1988 and while doing it – think about all the choices I made from that trip to now. This is the second time I’ve done this; last year I went to Glacier National Park. Next year is Yellowstone and Grand Teton.
Here I am, 37 years later. I’m hiking Flattop Mountain Trail and will continue .6 miles on an unnamed trail to Hallett Peak.
Here is the entry from my journal from 1988 (I’ve kept a journal since 1984)
Today, June 27, 2025, Friday, I entered the park and showed my timed entry to the park ranger. I was nervous about getting a parking spot at Bear Lake but when arriving at 6am the lot was half full – relief. I was feeling inspired and ready to hike.
I started up the trail to Flattop Mountain and most people I saw turned left to the shorter hikes to the lakes while carrying big cameras and lenses. I don’t see anyone until I see a family of 5 hiking towards me. They told me they weren’t prepared for the terrain and heading back to Bear Lake. I don’t see anyone again until I made a turn on the trail and saw colorful clothes to my left. A family of 3 was sitting on a rock taking in the views. I asked them if they are heading to Flattop and they said yes. Awesome, I reply. I won’t be alone.
I hiked the slowest I’ve ever hiked. My heart beat hard and I stopped frequently to catch my breath. I’m a fast hiker, but not today. I thought of turning around many times, but my self-talk told me “I have nothing else to do today so I might as well keep going.” This helps.
I seriously have no other commitments and could take as long as I needed to get to the top. This kept me going, plus, I really wanted to get to the top and re-live this memory. Nothing looked familiar. Nothing.
I stopped several times to take in the views of the mountain lakes and the snowy peaks across the valley, then kept going. I ate and drank, and stopped to breathe.
I made it above treeline and kept going to Flattop. The views were stunning. My head started to ache. I sat down for a few minutes. I made it to a snow field and then to the junction where Hallett’s trail continues marked by cairns only. I asked a man in running tights how the trail was. “It’s an easy 20 minutes.”
I was convinced to continue and it was slow going over rocks, much like Mount Washington and the Presidential Traverse in New Hampshire. The last tenth of a mile was scrambling and looking for cairns. This was not easy. Every step I was cautious and intentional. My brain was zombie-like. I had a headache.
I made it.
This is seriously the biggest accomplishment for me in 2025. I did what I planned to do. I didn’t injure myself. I didn’t have a heart attack. I didn’t get killed by a wild animal. I made it.
I don’t stay long and head back down. I’m nervous about running out of water. I have my filter and just need to find a stream.
At the junction I met three women, all solo hikers. We took a selfie and this was the moment when I knew I’m not a weirdo to do all these hikes solo – so many other brave women were doing it too. In the background is Hallett Peak.
I hiked slowly and methodically because I wanted to remember this moment. I did it.
I found a stream and filtered water into my bladder and kept going. The sun was strong and I was eager to get into the trees. I made it down and I’m surprised that nothing hurts; my training was good.
I got back to my car and drove back to Estes Park. I needed food and more water. I don’t have a post-hike plan other than to drive to Leadville after. I should’ve had a plan.
I left the park and head edback to the hotel where I knew I can use a restroom to clean up and possibility get another burger. The burger place was closed so I drove down the road to a Mexican restaurant and ordered a burrito and Pepsi. Just what I needed.
I looked through my photos of the day while I ate my burrito and I felt so happy. So happy.
Now on to the next hike – Hope Pass at Twin Lakes on Saturday – and a chance at redemption.
And then I find this: Let’s just see if dreams come true, post. My dreams are about pushing my limits, seeing new places, and adopting more dogs. (Oxford comma intended)
I’m looking at houses on real estate websites and find a perfect cabin in the woods, somewhat close to Great Smoky Mountain National Park. A cabin in the woods has always been my dream. As much as living in Montana.
I’m reaching a point where I want to go back to that list I created as a senior in high school. Things I want to do before I die. Who thinks of these things at 18 years old living in New Hampshire? Apparently me. Goal oriented, fast thinking, decision maker; often not thinking of consequences.
When I think about the original list. There are a few things I remember about that original list.
I remember: being a member of a church, log cabin in the woods, be married, have a child, Mount Whitney, AT, triathlon, live out west.
A few of these I can still do.
Today, in 2025 I don’t want to travel internationally until our government is restored and a sane president is elected. I can do everything on the original list except be married and have a child. I’ve lived out west. But maybe this is my time to be a member of a church and buy a cabin in the woods.
I’m a lover of lists and dreams and plan and possibilities.
I ran the Dirty South Half Marathon trail race on Sunday, Dec 8 at Meade’s Quarry in Knoxville; the final race in the 2024 Trail Running Series. The race is located south of Ijams Nature Center, which I ended up having to park in since I arrived so close to the start time. Last year I ran the 10K and admired runners who stayed straight and ran 13.1 miles on that cold morning. I wanted to do the half so today is my day.
In June I finished the Motus Half which has a similar course but Dirty South is longer and more elevation gain.
Race Day Morning:
I woke up not feeling great about racing today. I thought about not going; which is par for the course for almost every race. I had to cheer myself on by saying I love trail running in winter AND I needed trail miles. I have to do this as Step 2 of my Do Hard Things year. Step 1 was completed by finishing the Philadelphia Marathon. Step 3 is Beast of the East marathon.
But today just 13 plus miles on runnable trails, is what I’m thinking.
I got my gear ready and started driving to Meade’s Quarry.
The Race:
The Dirty South race course is touted as “a mix of rocky, technical singletrack and buffed out, flowing mountain bike trail”; and that is exactly right. I love this course because it’s so runnable and flowy. It’s rocky and rooty, and just perfect. I always forget about the first mile, which has a steep, hikable trail and a significant hill climb. Then it evens out to flowy mountain bike terrain.
Just before the first aid station I met Kara and started running with her. She is an ultra runner too and it was great to talk to someone.
During the run at this point I hit a snag in a root. My left foot was caught but miraculously snapped the root and I didn’t fall. My left foot hurt for a minute, I stopped then walked it out. I didn’t think of it again.
My first mistake during this run was made at the first aid station. I didn’t fill up my bladder to the top and I didn’t drink any Tailwind. I wanted to keep going since I was feeling good. I realized, too, that usually I bring one booby bottle with Tailwind and I didn’t today. It just wasn’t on my mind in the morning. I did bring enough food this time, gels and bars; sometimes I don’t bring enough. I learned from a runner that the next aid station was around mile 10. I ran out of water at mile 8. I hate it when I make rookie mistakes like this. Then, the situation got worse – there was no aid station at 10. I felt a bit delusional at times and would go a while not sure I was on course. The trail didn’t look the same from the spring (It was a different course, different organizers). At one point I had to yell ahead to Kara just to see if I was on course and she was so awesome to run back to me to make me feel better (Thank you Kara if you read this).
Once I realized that maybe there wasn’t a second aid station, I just settled in and tried not to panic. I walked a lot and just concentrated on getting to the finish. At mile 12 the aid station appeared. I drank a bunch of Tailwind and filled my bladder to the top. I was spent. I lost a lot of energy worrying and just felt dehydrated. Then, at mile 13.1 I wasn’t at the finish. I walked and run and finally at mile 13.97 I crossed the finish line. Yahoo!
Post Race:
The Good: I finished The Bad: My left foot is a swollen mess from the root and it hurts to walk on it.
As with any running injury I question everything about running. This injury could’ve been much worse if the root didn’t release my foot. I start to think I’m too ambitious in my running goals. I’m too old. I’m too fat. I’m not strong enough. I’m not going to trail run anymore. I’m going to play my life safe. No more risks.
But luckily, the nurse practitioner at urgent care says it’s not broken. I might be able to run Saturday if the swelling subsides – and BOOM – everything is okay in the world.
Race Website: https://ktc.org/events/dirty-south-trail-races/ Distance: 13.97 miles. Elevation Gain: 2,753 ft Time: 3 hrs, 14 mins What I ate: Pre-race: 3 eggs and veggie scramble, During race: 2 GU gels, 1 Honey Stinger waffle What I drank: one cup of tailwind endurance at 2nd aid station, 1.5 L water What I wore: Salomon hydration vest, winter running tights, green ¼ zip long sleeve, blue Mountain Hardwear jacket, beanie What I saw: I heard a lot of birds and squirrels in the forest. No wildlife encounters.