A blog about ultrarunning, Ironman and hiking 4,000 footers
As I was driving over Loop Road to avoid traffic on the Parkway, an idea came to my mind to rank all the place I’ve lived.
When I got home I made my list and ranked the best places I’ve lived. As you can see there is a bit of a pattern of living in places where training opportunities are good. I’ve also searched for photos to accompany these best places.
I’ve decided not to rank Gatlinburg since I’ve only been here three months.
I bought this poster in 1988 when I traveled out west after high school.
Once I got back to NH, after I thought I’d live forever in Colorado, I framed this poster and it has traveled with me every move.
I’ve always loved the quote, and after spending time in the Tetons, and the Jackson Hole Hostel I get it. Keep Wyoming Wild. Keep all beautiful places wild.
I love the composition of the photo: dark clouds over the Tetons, a little bit of light.
There are no beautiful blue skies and pastoral landscapes on my walls. I’m no decorator but the wall hangings in the countless homes, apartments and condos I’ve lived in New Hampshire, Vermont, Maine, Colorado, Arizona and now Tennessee, all mean something to me. I seem to love dark-ish, black and white photos and illustrations; yet somehow I’m still hopeful.
Tonight, for the first time, I research the writer and the quote and find out this:
“God bless Wyoming and keep it wild” was written in the last entry in the diary of 15-year-old Helen “Becky” Mettler, a Bar B-C guest from New Jersey in 1925. She fell 100 feet to her death in Taggart Canyon.
Ouch.
A girl from New Jersey – out west. Sounds a lot like Pam Houston. A writer who wrote about growing up in New Jersey and couldn’t wait to get out west.
My favorite story from Houston is the one about her dog Jackson in the book: A Little More About Me, the essay Home Is Where Your Dogs Are:
“My dog Jackson died today. He was my first dog, and I bought him at a pet store when he was only eight weeks old. We’ve been together more than fourteen years, which makes our relationship the longest successful relationship of my life.” I get that.
She also writes in this story about a place they lived in Fraser, Colorado. Fraser is a place I know pretty well and it is known as the “icebox of the nation” until a city in Minnesota won a court case. But I digress.
Houston fell in love with the west and wrote about it for years.
I get that, too.
But the poster makes me long to go see the Tetons again. I skied Jackson Hole during my Steamboat stint but haven’t hiked those mountains since 1988. It’s time.
While 2023 is still going to have many racecations, it’s time for some old time hiking and driving the west to see things.
I love the west, the stories, travel, the adventure.
This week, my NH hiking buddy, Ross is out west taking photos of Yellowstone and the Tetons and it got me thinking.
I need to go see these places again.
If I’m not living there I must travel there and be a part of it so I called Mark and made a plan to go there. I told him tonight, let’s go in the next two week or next May. He said without saying it: let’s go next year.
My first long hike and my destination 6,593 feet.
I was a bit nervous hiking solo for my first 4,000 footer in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park but the first part of Rainbow had a few people. I ran when I could and hiked fast. I didn’t know for sure that I would make it to the top, and knew I would turn back if I didn’t feel safe or just wasn’t feeling it.
For most of the 7 miles up I was on the lookout for bear. I had a Plan B if I encountered one: turn around.
The trail was alternatively rocky/roots and beautifully maintained. About two miles in I came to a clearing with views. Then back into the wood and the rainbow waterfall; it was very pretty. A few people had stopped for a break.
I kept going.
I didn’t see anyone for an hour when I ran into a man coming down the trail. He said the summit was great but recommended an additional .7 miles past the summit for views. I considered it.
As I continued I didn’t see anyone until the Alum Cave trail junction.
At the junction more people were hiking toward the lodge and I felt better being around people. I was trying to figure out where the summit was when a man showed us on his phone that it was a bit longer up the trail.
I took the obligatory lodge photo and kept going. A talked to a man from Greenville, SC that said he is working on his “highest point in each state” goal. I told him I was from NH and just moved here. He told me about his hike to Mount Washington via Tuckerman Ravine. We got to the real peak and he took this picture of me and continued on to the better views.
I turned back and headed to Bull Head. I saw three hikers coming up the trail and then no one for an hour. I ran as much as I could. I felt like this was a very unpopular trail. And it was so quiet. Then as I got to a more open part of the trail, and more rocky, I saw people ahead. I caught up to them and was so happy to see them. They were doing the loop too. I kept going and decided at that moment that this is my favorite trail so far. I could see more and the landscape was magical, despite the burned trees from the 2016 fire.
The rocky trail reminded me a bit of Tucson’s trails. Then the trail meandered back into the woods and in another 40 minutes I was back at my car.
Perfect weather. No bears. Felt strong. Now I’m chilling out with compression socks and a good lunch. 14 miles closer to 900 miles.
Last week I ran 28 miles. I’m so glad to back on the running-track. Three days of trail running and my long run on Saturday was on the road.
Sunday was a trail run on tired legs getting some miles done for the GSMNP 900.
I was on the Baskins Creek Trail and Trillium Gap Trail.
I was nervous being on the trail and running into bears.
I did run into two deer and later heard some rustling off the trail. Humidity was 98% and the trail was steeper than how I interpreted the map. Next time I will read the trail description before heading out.
I wandered around the Rainbow Trail area and found this cool hiker bridge:
I made it home alive and will be a bit more prepared next time. It is going to be so fun getting to know the national park.
Next week is 30-34 miles. I hope to discover more trails and start feeling strong.
Since I can’t work on my NH48 4,000 footer Grid, I’ll work on this:
I saw the bumper sticker today and did a little Googl’ing – I’m excited for this new hiking goal.
It’s a big park and it will give me some great hikes and trail runs to do this year.
I downloaded the data to a Google Sheet: I’m going to start tomorrow.
Here are some great articles about the 900 mile challenge:
Why you should do it. Danny Bernstein: Because the trails intersect and many trails start from other trails and not from a trailhead, it’s the most complicated hiking challenge I’ve done. Physically it’s not difficult. The Smokies’ trails are so well-maintained and marked that I can get really spoiled. Mile for mile, Smokies trails are easier than those in the surrounding national forests. But like any trail challenge or in life, success doesn’t depend just on physical strength or stamina. Hiking all the trails in the Smokies is much more about perseverance, organization, and keeping your eye on the goal.
Or do it in 30 days like Nancy East: Chasing the Smokies Moon: An audacious 948-mile hike–fueled by love, loss, laughter, and lunacy is a thought-provoking memoir. If you like true-life feats, sentimental contemplations, and stepping outside of comfort zones.
Yes, ma’am I love all these things.