Author: Kristen Lodge

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West to Little Rock

Go see the world, she said.

So I did.

Most of my racing and travel posts starts with a trip’s intent. If you are a frequent reader, you know that changes a lot especially right before the trip start.  

I signed up for the Little Rock Marathon six months ago. I signed up because I wanted to see Little Rock. I wanted to see the capital area, the Arkansas River and the Bill Clinton Presidential Library. I also wanted to drive into Oklahoma via the Trail of Tears byway. 

But first, a six-hour drive to Memphis where I stopped on the first night. I spent a few hours in the National Civil Rights Museum, 450 Mulberry Street. When you walk up to the museum, you see the Lorraine Motel as it was in 1968. In the museum they exhibit the history of the American Civil Rights Movement. Such well organized displays and thought provoking images. One exhibit shows what MLK’s hotel room looked like that he stayed in before he was shot. It felt strange to be walking around so much history that I’ve read about and watched on TV. I’m still processing what I saw and learned.

I walked through downtown, exploring and eating at a Mexican restaurant, reading area brochures and learning about Memphis. 

The next day, early start to Little Rock and packet pickup. I decided that I will run the half marathon instead of the full. I feel like dropping down in races is so 2023-of-me. However, the pattern continues in 2024. Please stand by. My race approach is evolving. But I digress…

I drove over the Arkansas River. The last time I saw this river was in Colorado last year when we visited the Royal Gorge. And now I see it as it joins the Mississippi in Arkansas. The Arkansas River is the second-longest tributary in the Mississippi-Missouri river system, originating near Leadville, Colorado – my favorite racecation destination. 

The entire registration was held in the Little Rock Convention Center. Using indoor. bathrooms is such a luxury with a big race like this. The dinosaur-themed race was festive with so many runners dressing silly. I was looking forward to race day.

After getting my bib, I drove to Little Rock Central High School. I walk around the grounds and read about the 1957 event and learn more about the Little Rock Nine.

I have enough time to drive to Fort Smith National Historic Site which is two hours from Little Rock. I walked through the historic fort and park, read the signs to learn about the fort’s history. I walked along the Arkansas River, which was heading towards Little Rock and the Mississippi.

Fort Smith trail walk on the Arkansas
In the park exhibit
the fort
late 19th century

I drove into Oklahoma, ate lunch and started back to Little Rock. 

I get back to the hotel, which is a half mile from the race start. Sometimes pre-trip planning doesn’t work out, but this time, the location works out to my advantage. And, it just so happens the Clinton Library is a short walk down the street. I walk around the campus since I missed open hours. There is some sort of fundraiser or event happening as I walk around; people are dressed up and entering the museum. 

Sunday: Race Day. I wake up at 4:30am for a 6am start. Originally the race was planned to start at 8am but due to unseasonable warm weather and humidity organized changed it to an early start. 

It’s 4:35 am and I really didn’t want to run. I wanted to sleep in and drive home. I get this way traveling sometimes; I just want to be home with my dogs. But then I force myself to remember this is a planned adventure. I want to do this. I want to run Little Rock.

Marathons (and shorter races) really allow me to see a place. I hemmed and hawed for a good 30 minutes and ultimately got up, put on my race clothes (read: big girl pants) and walked to the start. 

I was so happy to be at this start line. I always forget this.

The race start wasn’t what I expected, but almost nothing is anymore. 

There were thousands in the corral. Marathon and half marathoners all together in letter-labled areas. I was in E. 

I usually talk to people and get pumped up to start but today, I didn’t talk to anyone. I sat and stretched and took a few pictures. 

It took about five minutes to get to the start line and I just ran my pace. I no longer have a race pace – I have a pace I always run. My comfortable pace is between 10 and 11 minute miles. 

We ran through downtown and around a few residential areas and made our way back out to Central High School. The school’s marching band played for us as we ran by. Then suddenly I am at 13 miles and we are back to the start. The temperature was perfect: 55 and misting. No Sun! 

I’m so glad I finished this race. 

I walked back to the hotel and showered. I was sore! But I was also ready to head home. 

I drove home across the Arkansas River and the Mississippi River. I drove past Memphis and Nashville. As dark descended, and 8 hours had passed I was at Exit 407 and home was 30 minutes away. 

As of today, I have two states left to visit: Michigan and North Dakota. Let the trip planning begin.

How to fuel before a road trip: Flapjacks at Exit 407 Sevierville.

Go see the world.

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Day Three – Petrified Forest National Park and Saguaro NP

We woke up at 5am knowing that we had to get to Tucson before Saguaro NP closed at 4pm. Total mileage from Cortez, CO to Tucson, AZ: 538 miles. 

This time when we drove past Petrified Forest National Park it was open so we went in. 

I thought this was a small park off the side of the highway, but it ended up being a spectacular one hour drive south through an amazing landscape. 

Petrified Forest National Park was more that I ever expected. The views from driving through were beautiful, like a painting.

The Petroglyphs were so interesting to see and learn about the history of who did this to the rocks.

We got out and read the signs and learned about everything in the park. We stopped and walked the Blue Mesa Trail. We learned about how the trees became petrified and the climate change that caused them to be petrified. 

The biggest lesson learned on this trip is I want to know more about where I’m traveling before arriving. I would’ve liked to hike more trails in Petrified Forest. But also, it is sometimes hard to image a place and read about it before going there. Now, I’m reading more about this area and it makes more sense after being there. 

After exiting from the South Entrance it was onward to Tucson. The scenery is canyon and rock and desert. So many prickly pear. The cliffs made of sandstone dotted the landscape. We are in Apache country now. We drove through Tonto National Forest at an elevation of 5,840. 

Some of the signs I saw:

Truck Crossing
Free Wifi Wendy’s
Speedway – Fresh Coffee
Elevation 4,983
8% grade
Winkelman City Limits
Entering Pinal County
Aravaipa Creek
Biosphere 2
Entering Pima County

Saguaro National Park was exactly how I left it in 2015 – Gorgeous. We drove the road that I had run in a race and biked several times. The paved, hilly road that passed hundreds of Saguaros. 

Then we drove into Tucson met Kassandra for dinner and then back to Phoenix. The last day was a lot of driving in a beautiful landscape. I miss Tucson and I would love to live here again some day.

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Route 66, Four Corners, Mesa Verde

We left Flagstaff at 5am. Every morning on this trips was an early morning, packed with things to see. We purposely picked this route so we could see Winslow, Arizona and the famous location of the song, Take It Easy. We got there before the sun rose and there was no one around. 

It was so worth the trip of the highway to see. We played Take it Easy as we arrived. We studied the background of why Jackson Browne wrote about this location. Here’s what I found out:

As legend has it, Jackson Browne was driving to Sedona on Route 66 when his car broke down in the middle of Winslow. Winslow had some acclaim in the 50s with a celebrated hotel, the historic La Posada hotel. Then , in the 60s the town almost disappeared after I-40 was built and by-passed the town.

We took some photos and then it was on to the Petrified Forest National Park. We got there too early, it wasn’t opened yet. So we took a photo. I didn’t want to wait because I really wanted to spend as much time at Mesa Verde. I had been reading so much about the park and the cliff dwellings, I didn’t want to waste any time. [Note, we ended up spending a lot of time in Petrified Forest the next day, on the way to Tucson.]

We continued on toward the Four Corners Monument, Navajo Tribal Park. Monument on Route 40.

We drove past Gallup and Shiprock, and admired the Painted Desert. It was so beautiful watching the sunrise in the middle of the desert. 

We turned off the highway, for the Four Corners Monument not knowing what to expect. In the middle of nowhere was this park and buildings. We paid our admission and entered. There were vendors all around the middle of the park selling native american art and jewelry. I wanted to remember this place since it was magical with the flag and the history and wind, so I bought a ring from a native american woman. We took a bunch of photos and then headed to the hike. 

We hiked down the trail stepping in all four states: Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado and Utah. It is a rugged landscape and today the blue sky was accented with puffy, white clouds. October is the best time to go here. Very few people were here so there weren’t any lines, and it was cold-ish. 

Now it was onward to Cortez, where we would stay the night, and Mesa Verde. The drive was spectacular and clouds threatened the entire afternoon. We could see oncoming dark clouds most of the time and got rained on a bit. But there were not many people in the park which made it very nice. There was a fire here, too, in 2002. You can still see fire scars driving to the mesa.

Mesa Verde was magical. It was everything I expected and more. It has a vibe, something in the air that made me feel the history, the people who lived here. As we started the drive up to the mesa I was just awaiting after every turn something beautiful but the coolest part was when I got out of the car, walked the trail, and just around the first curve, I saw it – the cliff dwellings under the overhanging cliffs. Cliff Palace.

There is nothing like it in the world. I just stared and couldn’t take my eyes off it. I walked closer for a different perspective. It was spectacular, I felt the sacredness of this place. We stopped at Spruce Tree House, Cliff Palace and Balcony House. 

Guided tours of the cliff dwellings ended a few days before we arrived so we could only look from afar. Next time, and there will be another trip here, I will do a tour and get close. 

I wanted to come here and just be in the park, experience being there. I wanted to take in the landscape and watch the sky. This is exactly what I did. We brought our lunch and sat on a bench and just watched. On the drive back down we stopped at the Fire Lookout and took in the amazing views.

I cannot wait to come back here.

We stayed the night in Cortez and at first light, headed south to Tucson and Saguaro National Park.

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Grand Canyon and Flagstaff in October

My original plan was to run the Javelina 100K. I signed up six months prior to the start date. 

Training didn’t go as planned. Blah blah blah. 

In September I decided that I would instead take a tour of National Parks and visit the legendary 4 Corners. 

My travel partner was Mark, who initially offered to crew my 100K race, then decided that touring the National Parks was a good vacation idea, too. 

I planned to see my friend Mary on Friday night to wish her well on the 100K but my plane was late and the lines for the car rental didn’t get me out of the airport until 11pm. [Note: Mary loved the race and wants to do it again, so I have a second chance to do it at some point.]

Saturday morning Mark and I left for the Grand Canyon at 5am. We drove past Sedona and Flagstaff wanting to spend as much time at Grand Canyon and Bright Angel trail as possible. Our only stop was for a late breakfast in Tusayan. I had the most amazing Huevos Ranchos. 

We got to the park and headed straight to Bright Angel. I wanted to go down at least 3 miles. I loved seeing the trail in the distance; I just wanted to hike to the river. We occasionally caught glimpses of the Colorado River.

The trail was steep in places but also leveled out for a nice break. It was nice to just take a leisurely hike into the canyon.

Usually my hiking plans take on a life of their own and I go go go. But this time it was a slow pace, checking to make sure Mark was good. He’s more of a road runner and doesn’t really hike – but is in great shape. He did well. 

We ended up hiking 2.5 miles with 722 feet of elevation gain. 

After visiting the shops on the South Rim we took the shuttle west and walked along the Rim Trail. We were able to see the Colorado River and stopped at the Powell Monument honoring Major John Wesley Powell who was among the  first to ‘run’ the Colorado River in Grand Canyon. 

I’ve read Stegner’s book about Powell, and have read so many historical stories about Powell. He was the person who warned the government about the west’s aridity that wouldn’t be able to sustain agriculture. He was also a scientist. He also advocated for removal of Indigenous, which no longer makes him a hero, in my view. 

It was a cold day in October to visit the park – so much better than sweating, which was the case the last time I visited the Grand Canyon in 2015. 

Mark and I drove back to Flagstaff past Humphreys Peak in the Coconino National Forest where we saw the devastation from the fires in 2022. In the picture below you can see the blackened tree trunks.

We had dinner in town and stayed the night in a hotel. It was a long day seeing northern Arizona. I can’t wait to go back. Mark and I have a plan to come back this coming October for a Rim to Rim hike.

Next up Route 66, 4 Corners and Mesa Verde.

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Reading books, obsession, poets and the star

I’m currently in book reading mode. This happens to me every 5 or 9 years. I suddenly want to read everything, go back to school and watch every movie or documentary on the subject I’m suddenly obsessed with. It’s pretty fun to spend every free moment reading and thinking about reading, and listening to books in the car and on my phone. I’m obsessed.

This time it is Western American Literature and Western American History.

I should say, this time and last time I got obsessed with every writer writing in the late 19th and early 20th Century. I read master theises, I read research and subscribed to journals. I go down associated subjects’ rabbit holes. It’s so fun.

Warning: this is not really related to the outdoors but I do have a triathlon analogy coming up. Read on, please.

I’m reading and buying books from DeVoto, american history scholars, railroads, authors writing about this time period and text books about these subjects. What is interesting to me as I follow link to link, reading about writers and historians and the transcontinental railroad, I see a book about a man writing about the Sonoran Desert. And I remember his name. I read his book when I was living in Tucson and the Sonoran Desert. I remember on my blogspot blog I wrote about the book, and about him.

The irony in the story below is about obsessions and getting so into a subject that it generates a book, a story or a movie – or changes your life.

I dream of being a scholar, professional athlete, world traveler. The closest I can come to realizing a dream is to: read everything, do the work, talk to people. The key to success in any enterprise.

But I digress. Here is the story I wrote January 2014 about a book I loved.

The Fallen Sky and Obsessions

I am reading The Fallen Sky An Intimate History of Shooting Stars. And while, I am no scientist and I know nothing about meteors and meteorites, it is a really interesting book. What hooks me is how the author personalizes a story about the people who are obsessed with meteorites. The author, Christopher Cokinos, is searching for those who are searching for meteors; he is hunting the obsessive types.

I know that type well.

For I am obsessed with triathlon.

I am endlessly fascinated by fellow-obsessed triathletes. I want to know what drives them, what makes them get up in the morning and train, then go to work, and train again. But I’m also obsessed with the west and western writers and people who chose to live in the west.

Maybe my next book needs to be about obsessed nature writers who are triathletes and live in the west.

I am reading five books right now and The Fallen Sky is my number one. I can’t seem to put it down. This is my favorite passage so far. As you read it think of what you are searching for, the journeys you have been on and what you found, and the people you met:

“Whether someone wishes to possess a meteorite to sell it or to crack one open in a laboratory for discovery, the meteorite must first be found or hunted. Which often means you have to be willing to go where the meteorites are ….such journeys have impressed on me that wonder-whether from discovering a geological rarity or tracking down a hidden history or finding a lover – is not as pristine a feeling as some would think. I found that mine was a journey into wonder and its costs. Along the way, I bore changes in my life and realized that I was hunting the lives of the meteorite hunters – not just the stones themselves-and I began to understand these strangers’ lives better when I accepted my own. Quests, after all, can come at a very high price….As to the meteorite clan, they’re a complicated, colorful lot.” (4)

Yes, quests come at a cost and triathletes sure are a colorful bunch.

It’s like the osprey folks. They are obsessed about finding osprey. The obsessed are everywhere.

I’m going to keep reading The Fallen Sky and learn about shooting stars and crazy people who are endlessly fascinated by them, to understand my own obsessions.